Every July and August, millions of saffron-clad pilgrims carrying pots of Ganga water throng highways across north India. The Kanwar Yatra now affects everything from traffic to school schedules and policing. But why do devotees, called kanwariyas, undertake the pilgrimage in the first place? And how did this religious practice become one of north India’s largest annual public events?While the idea of pilgrimage in the Hindu religion is ancient, the Kanwar Yatra as seen today is a relatively new phenomenon. This year, it will be held from July 30 to August 11, the day of Saavan Shivratri.Kanwar Yatra is undertaken in the Hindu month of Shravan, or Saavan. Like many Indian festivals, Kanwar Yatra is also linked to the Samudra Manthan, the cosmic churning of the ocean.When the Devas (gods) and the Asuras (loosely translated as demons) churned the ocean, among the many things to emerge from it was halahal, or poison. The poison was so potent that if allowed to spread, it would have ended all life. Lord Shiva then swallowed the poison, which turned his throat blue and earned him the epithet of Neelkantha (the blue-throated one). To cool his burning throat, Goddess Parvati and others gave him water from the Ganga.Since the Samudra Manthan took place in the month of Shravan, devotees carry pitchers of Ganga water to Shiva temples as an offering in this month. The kanwar should not be put down on the ground at any time during the journey, and so people often travel in groups, carrying the kanwar for each other when needed.Popular sites to collect the Ganga water are Sultanganj in Bihar, Prayagraj, Ayodhya or Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, and Haridwar, Gaumukh and Gangotri in Uttarakhand. The Shiva temples considered of special importance are the 12 Jyotirlingas, the Baidyanath Dham in Jharkhand’s Deoghar, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi, Pura Mahadev temple in Baghpat, and the Augharnath Temple in Meerut. Kanwariyas on the banks of the Ganga in Haridwar. (Photo: PTI)“Some temples are more popular than others, but it is not necessary for a devotee to go to one of these. Ganga water can be offered to Lord Shiva in the local town or village temple. Traditionally, the journey was undertaken on foot. Lord Shiva is an ascetic, so during the Kanwar Yatra, his devotees are supposed to practise the ascetic values of abstention and discipline while undertaking the journey,” Dr Ramesh Kumar Upadhyay, president of the Bhartiya Jyotish Aadhyatm Parishad in Jamshedpur, said.Story continues below this adUpadhyay added that along with the Samudra Manthan legend, there is also an astrological reason to worship Shiva in the month of Shravan. “Saavan, or Shravan, takes its name from the Shravana nakshatra (alignment of stars). Worshipping Lord Shiva in this nakshatra is considered specially auspicious,” he said.History, present of the Kanwar YatraMentions of the Kanwar Yatra as we know it are scant in religious texts and history books, though there are legends of various mythological figures offering Ganga water to Lord Shiva, from the sage Parshuram to Lord Rama to Lanka’s king Ravana. Then there is the legend of Shravan Kumar in the Ramayana, who took his parents to pilgrimage in what we understand as a kanwar, but he is not recorded as carrying Ganga water to Shiva. Devotees during the ongoing Kanwar Yatra in Meerut on Saturday. (ANI Photo)Prof DP Dubey, retired professor of ancient history at the University of Allahabad and General Secretary of the Society of Pilgrimage Studies, said, “Even the British, who were good at documenting, have not described a Kanwar Yatra. A Maharashtrian brahmin, Vishnubhat Godse, wrote a memoir of his travels in central and North India during and after the Revolt of 1857 (Maza Pravas, published much later in 1907). He talks of carrying Ganga water back to his village in Maharashtra to bathe his parents with, and this description, of walking barefoot carrying the Ganga water in a sling, is the closest to Kanwar Yatra as seen today. From my analysis of various local texts and accounts, the Kanwar Yatra appears to have originated in Bihar’s Sultanganj in the 1700s. From there, it spread.”However, this spread was slow and steady, and the major uptick seems to have come in the 1980s. Various scholars have written about it, and factors, while difficult to pinpoint, include better connectivity and infrastructure, rise of Hindu identity assertion, popularity and increased accessibility of devotional music in the form of cassettes, and increasing average income in North India.Story continues below this adVikash Singh, Associate Professor of Sociology at New Jersey’s Montclair State University, in his book Uprising of the Fools: Pilgrimage as Moral Protest in Contemporary India (2017) about the Kanwar Yatra, has written that many of the kanwariyas are young, not-very-affluent men. “At the margins of the economy, the religious phenomenon provided an open and freely accessible, yet challenging, stage—a definite and alternative field—for participants to practice and prove their talents, resolve, and moral sincerity…The religious event is also a means to contest the symbolic violence and social inequities of a hierarchical society now dominated by a neoliberal social ethic, as imposing as it is exclusive.”Prof Dubey pointed out that as with most things in India, in the popularity of certain types of religious activities too, caste plays a role.“An important thing to note about pilgrimages, be it to the Kumbh Mela or the Kanwar Yatra, is that they are a way to break the rigid boundaries of caste. Historically, pilgrims trailed the caravans of traders or even soldiers for security. Pilgrimages create bonds of community that are more inclusive than the generally air-tight pockets of caste. State support also plays a role. With the UP government now literally showering kanwariyas with flowers, the draw is naturally greater,” Dubey said.