《黄色脸孔》作者匡灵秀在台北最喜欢的五个地方

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CLARISSA WEI2026年9月15日匡灵秀的最新小说以台北为背景,素材源自她2023年在这座城市探索期间所写的日记。 When the novelist R.F. Kuang spent two months in 2023 in Taipei for an intensive Mandarin course, she found herself inadvertently sketching the outlines of a new novel. Her grandfather had recently died, and she was keeping a diary. “I was trying to remember as many details and document the texture and flavor of what grief felt like,” she said in a video interview.2023年,小说家匡灵秀在台北生活了两个月,参加一个高强度汉语课程,期间她发现自己无意中勾勒出了一部新小说的轮廓。她的祖父刚去世不久,她正在写日记。“我试图尽可能多地记住细节,记录悲伤的质地和味道,”她在一次视频采访中说。Those entries became the raw material for her novel “Taipei Story,” publishing on Tuesday, which follows Lily Chen, a 19-year-old Chinese American contending with mistranslation and bereavement during a summer in the city.这些日记成为她的小说《台北故事》的原始素材。这本于周二出版的书讲述了19岁的华裔美国人陈丽丽在这座城市度过一个夏天、面对误译和丧亲之痛的故事。《台北故事》是匡灵秀的第七部小说,也是她的第二部纯文学作品。 Charles Krupa/Associated PressA doctoral candidate in East Asian languages and literatures at Yale, Ms. Kuang has built a devoted following for her meticulously researched novels about language, empire and power. “Taipei Story” is her seventh novel and her second work of literary fiction after her 2023 publishing-world satire “Yellowface.” It returns to the questions of identity and belonging that have long animated her work.匡灵秀是耶鲁大学东亚语言与文学专业博士生,凭借关于语言、帝国和权力、经过严谨考据的小说积累了一批忠实读者。《台北故事》是她的第七部小说,也是继2023年关于出版界的讽刺小说《黄色脸孔》之后的第二部纯文学作品。它回归了长期激发她创作的身份与归属问题。Lily Chen is fictional, but the novel’s emotional and physical settings are inspired by Ms. Kuang’s study-abroad stint. She built her protagonist’s Taipei from her own experiences, like studying in kitschy cafes near National Taiwan University, where she was enrolled; slipping into movie screenings between classes; and hiking Elephant Mountain at the edge of the city. “I wanted to explore the sort of circuit of daily experiences that somebody spending a summer at N.T.U. would have had,” Ms. Kuang said.陈丽丽是虚构的,但小说的情感和实体场景受到匡灵秀留学经历的启发。她用自身经历构建了主人公的台北:在她就读的台湾大学附近俗气的咖啡馆里学习,课间溜进电影放映厅,在城市边缘的象山徒步。“我想探索一个在台大度过夏天的人会有的那种日常,”匡灵秀说。Although Ms. Kuang has not returned to Taipei since that summer, certain corners of the city have stayed with her. Here are five:尽管匡灵秀自那个夏天之后没有再回台北,但这座城市的某些角落一直伴随着她。以下是其中的五个:1. Qingtian Tea House1. 青田茶馆 An Rong Xu for The New York Times匡灵秀和一位热衷于尝试各种茶饮的同学去了青田茶馆。那里宁静的环境和巨大的芒果树让她着迷。“I had a classmate whose hobby was obsessively trying tea everywhere around the city,” Ms. Kuang said. She was occasionally roped into these quests, one of which led to Qingtian Tea House, a charming oasis that occupies a Japanese-era wooden home near her campus at N.T.U. in the Da’an District. It specializes in Taiwanese oolongs, but the detail Ms. Kuang remembers the most fondly wasn’t on the menu. It was the giant mango tree in the courtyard. During her visit, a rainstorm began knocking mangoes onto the roof with startling thuds. “At some point, we stopped paying attention to our tea and started counting the mango bangs,” she said. The final tally: roughly 85.“我有一个同学热衷于在城市各处尝试茶饮,”匡灵秀说。她偶尔被拉进这些探索之旅,其中一次带她来到了青田茶馆——位于大安区台大校园附近一座日据时期木屋中的迷人绿洲。这里专营台湾乌龙茶,但匡灵秀记忆最深刻的细节不在菜单上,而是院子里那棵大芒果树。有一次在店里,一场暴雨开始把芒果砸到屋顶上,发出惊人的重击声。“我们一度不再注意茶,开始数芒果的撞击声,”她说。最终计数:大约85次。2. Vegetarian Tomato Beef Noodle Restaurant2. 素食茄汁牛肉面餐厅 信义区这家不起眼的餐厅用猴头菇制作了台湾招牌美食红烧牛肉面的素食版,让不吃肉的匡灵秀也品尝到了美味。 Beef noodle soup — braised chunks of beef in a rich broth — is one of Taiwan’s most emblematic dishes. Thousands of restaurants across the country specialize in it, and Taipei even holds an annual competition for who can cook the best bowl. Ms. Kuang, who does not eat meat, had never tried the dish — or even a vegetarian version — until she stumbled on this restaurant in the Xinyi District. “It’s this hole-in-the-wall place where they seemed totally uninterested in having any customers,” she said. Their version swaps the beef with lion’s head mushroom, served with springy noodles in a tomato-centric soup. “It was incredible,” she said.牛肉面——使用大块牛肉炖煮的浓郁汤底——是台湾最具标志性的菜肴之一。全台有数千家餐厅专营牛肉面,台北甚至每年举办比赛评选最佳。不吃肉的匡灵秀从未尝试过这道菜,甚至素食版本也没有,直到她在信义区偶然发现了这家餐厅。“就是那种不起眼的小馆,似乎对有没有顾客完全不在意,”她说。他们的版本用猴头菇替代牛肉,配上筋道的面条,放在以番茄为主的汤里。“太不可思议了,”她说。3. Nationwide Healthy Vegetarian3. 全国素食 An Rong Xu for The New York Times在“全国素食”,食客可以自行拣选新鲜烹制的素菜,最后按重量计价。匡灵秀表示,这样的餐厅打破了“台北对素食者很不友好”的刻板印象。Before she moved to Taipei, some of Ms. Kuang’s friends warned her that the city would be difficult for a vegetarian. “That’s just completely not true,” she said. She became a regular at Nationwide Healthy Vegetarian, a cafeteria-style buffet chain with locations all over the city where diners load up on freshly prepared dishes like crispy fried tofu, braised eggplant, stir-fried ferns, bamboo shoot salad and multigrain rice, then pay by weight.来到台北前,匡灵秀的一些朋友警告她,这座城市对素食者来说会很困难。“完全不是这样,”她说。她成了“全国素食”的常客——这是一家自助餐式连锁店,全市各地都有分店。食客们拣选新鲜烹制的菜肴,如酥炸豆腐、红烧茄子、炒蕨菜、竹笋沙拉和杂粮饭,然后按重量付费。4. N.T.U. Agricultural Products Sales Center4. 台大农产品展示中心 an Rong Xu for The New York Times台大农产品展示中心主打冰淇淋三明治等乳制品。“我不知道是不是我们太饿了,但那是我吃过的最好的冰淇淋之一,”匡灵秀说。Some of Ms. Kuang’s favorite discoveries came from tips shared in class — including this campus shop, which sells fresh milk and ice cream sandwiches made with dairy from the university’s experimental farm. The milk, which her classmates described as unusually rich, drew lines every day. The sandwiches, consisting of a thick slab of ice cream pressed between two savory soda crackers, also had a cultish following. “I don’t know if we were just starving, but it was some of the best ice cream I ever had,” she said.匡灵秀最喜欢的一些发现来自课堂上分享的推荐,包括这家校园商店。它出售鲜奶和用大学实验农场乳制品制作的冰淇淋三明治。她的同学形容这种牛奶口感异常浓郁,每天都吸引人们排起长队。用两块咸味苏打饼干夹着厚厚一片冰淇淋的冰淇淋三明治,也有一批狂热追随者。“我不知道是不是我们太饿了,但那是我吃过的最好的冰淇淋之一,”她说。5. SPOT Huashan5. 光点华山 An Rong Xu for The New York Times在台北期间,匡灵秀经常去华山光点艺术影院。这里既放映国际电影,也上映本土影片。Taiwanese cinema made its international breakthrough in the 1980s. Though its heyday has passed, the island’s cinephile culture endures. “Taiwan has a really fun repertory indie cinema scene,” Ms. Kuang said. She spent hours at the SPOT Huashan in the Zhongzheng District, an art-house theater where obscure international films screen alongside domestic hits. One stood out: The Japanese filmmaker Ryusuke Hamaguchi’s “Passion,” which follows a group of college friends through a night of romantic revelations. Ms. Kuang was delighted by the interplay of Japanese dialogue and English, Japanese and Mandarin subtitles. “In the film, they’re jumping between languages, yet communication is still sometimes impossible because we have so many ways of hiding how we actually feel and what we want to express,” she said. She ended up weaving that experience — and those themes — into a scene in “Taipei Story.”台湾电影在1980年代取得国际突破。尽管鼎盛时期已过,这座岛屿的影迷文化依然存续。“台湾有一个非常有趣的艺术影院生态,”匡灵秀说。她在中正区的光点华山度过了许多时光——这是一家艺术影院,冷门国际电影与本土热门影片一同放映。其中一部格外突出:日本导演滨口龙介的《激情》(Passion),讲述一群大学朋友在一个充满浪漫启示的夜晚的故事。日语对白与英语、日语和国语字幕之间的相互作用让匡灵秀欣喜。“在电影中,他们在语言之间跳跃,但沟通有时仍然不可能,因为我们有太多的办法去隐藏真正的感受和想要表达的东西,”她说。她最终将那次经历——以及那些主题——编织进了《台北故事》的一个场景中。摄影:许安荣翻译:经雷点击查看本文英文版。