You’re reading Nina Garcia’s Insider Guide newsletter. This edition was originally published in July 2026. Sign up to receive the next edition here.Athens has always struck me as one of Europe’s most misunderstood cities. People arrive with their eyes fixed on the islands, treating Greece’s iconic capital as little more than a stopover en route to the ferry. But this city is worth lingering in, especially now that Christopher Nolan’s The Odyssey has renewed the world’s fascination with Greek mythology. The drama, the costumes, the sheer romance of it all—if the film left you wanting to revisit Odysseus’s journey, Athens offers the chance to walk like a goddess among the history and landmarks that inspired it all.History is woven into everyday life all across Europe, but here it feels even deeper, even more acute, more ancient. The Acropolis isn’t just an attraction that you visit—it appears unexpectedly between buildings, watches over the boulevards, and is the last thing that glows at sunset. I love how mythology never feels too far from modernity in Athens. They exist together, which is what makes the city feel so alive. Neoclassical houses have become intimate boutique hotels, family-run tavernas sit beside contemporary art galleries, and a new generation of chefs, designers, and artisans are redefining what Greek creativity looks like today.For this month’s Insider Guide, I looked back on my own visits to Athens and also asked four people whose taste I admire—my dear friend and owner of Love Floris, Vivia Costales; designer Mary Katrantzou; jeweler Nikos Koulis; and Ancient Greek Sandals creative director Christina Martini—to share what keeps them returning again and again.BEST TIME TO GO:Athens doesn’t belong to a single season. Spring and fall are especially lovely, with warm days and comfortable nights. Summer is ideal if you plan on dividing your time between the city center and the beach clubs of the Athens Riviera. Even winter has its own appeal, when the museums and restaurants are quieter and it’s as if you have the whole city to yourself.Whenever you visit, resist the temptation to treat Athens as a mere prelude to somewhere else. Wander around without much of a plan, spend as many long evenings as possible over rooftop dinners, and let the city reveal itself gradually.SleepCourtesy of Nina GarciaHotel Grande Bretagne: This grand dame has been defining hospitality and welcoming jet-setters to Athens since 1874. It overlooks Syntagma Square and has a rooftop restaurant, GB Roof Garden, which is one of the city’s best vantage points, with gorgeous city views. If you aren’t staying here, you must go for dinner at least once.The Dolli at Acropolis: Housed in a restored neoclassical mansion and filled with art, this boutique choice feels intimate and quietly luxurious. Its rooftop pool is one of my favorites anywhere, and every room is filled with hand-selected contemporary art, antiques, and marble details—for a synergy that feels distinctly Greek. Vivia particularly recommends the restaurant for its delicious Mediterranean flavors and direct view of the Acropolis. I have to agree.Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens: Set on its own pine-covered peninsula along the Athens Riviera, this hotel offers everything you could want from a Mediterranean resort: aquamarine water, private beaches, great restaurants, and cinematic sunsets. If you’re extending your trip outside the downtown core, or you simply prefer waking up beside the sea, this is the place to stay, according to Christina.Also try:OkupaPerianth HotelMona AthensDineCourtesy of Nina GarciaBreakfast:Athénée: Mary describes Athénée as a “quintessential Athens institution” where breakfast effortlessly turns into lunch, coffee turns into dinner, and you inevitably run into friends along the way.Akra: A visit to Athens is never complete without making time for Akra. Breakfast is reason enough to come, with beautifully executed, fresh fare and strong coffee, though locals know it’s just as lovely for a lingering lunch or early dinner if you can score a reservation.Ariston Bakery: This old-school bakery has been in the same location and owned by the same family since 1910. It specializes in all sorts of savory pies that are perfect for a quick breakfast—especially the tyropita cheese pies still warm from the oven.Lunch:Papaioannou: This restaurant has two locations by the water—one in Piraeus, the scenic port of Athens, and the other on the Athens Riviera. Both offer fresh seafood with simple preparations that let the ingredients do all the talking.Plyta: Hidden away on a peaceful lane, this neighborhood favorite serves Greek comfort food from chef Giannis Koskinas, whose restaurants have a devoted local following.Wine is Fine: Have you ever heard of a cuter restaurant name? Celebrating Franco-Greek cuisine, this wine bar pairs sharing plates with a wine list that would impress any oenophile. Christina recommends the scene here for a late afternoon drink.Dinner:Pharoah: Don’t be confused by the Egyptian name—this is modern Greek at its best, with the lively atmosphere every jet-setter is seeking. Go for the food, stay for the people-watching, and thank me later.Zigoala: A great symbol of Athens’s cosmopolitan moment. It’s understated, intimate, and full of ambiance. Vivia recommends the chicken and salad dishes.Birdman: To experience the cultural crosscurrents that define modern-day Athens, visit this Japanese bar and grill tucked into an unassuming alley. It serves yakitori alongside Greek wines and always has an interesting vinyl spinning on the record player.Byzantino: This mainstay has recently been reborn as a French-inflected “grande brasserie.” But it is still a symbol of old Athens allure, according to Nikos, right down to the sweets and cheese trolley for dessert.Vezené: An elegant dinner spot serving contemporary Greek food from a wood-fired kitchen.Gamay: There is a growing natural wine scene in Athens, and Gamay is exactly the sort of in-the-know spot where wine lovers go for a pre-dinner aperitivo or post-dinner nightcap.Iodio: Refined but not precious, Iodio is one of Mary’s top recommendations for visitors. It blends Italian and Greek cuisine for a celebration of Mediterranean flavors—get the calamari cacio e pepe or the sea urchin pasta.Linou Soumpasis: Both Nikos and Christina agree that this new-age taverna in central Psiri is worth the hype. The setting—a former candle shop surrounded by busy bars and shops—is just as memorable as the food.Also try:Manári TavernaTaverna ton FilonTa KanariaIsland Club & RestaurantTaverna SaitaPapadakisEkiben KitchenDiscoverCourtesy of Nina GarciaNational Observatory of Athens: Framed by fragrant pines, the winding paths here are among the city’s most beautiful—peaceful, timeless, and far removed from the buzz of the city. Climb Filopappou Hill and lose yourself in the view.Acropolis Museum: I never tire of visiting this museum’s light-filled galleries showcasing the art of ancient Greece. Even if you’ve been before, the museum rewards repeat visits.Cine Oasis: Athens has a deep respect for the art of filmmaking, and there are a number of independent cinemas around the city. I love Cine Oasis for its outdoor setting and vintage movie lineup.Krabo: When you’ve had your fill of history, it’s time to dive into culture of a different kind: the beach clubs of the Athens Riviera. My favorite is Krabo, a day-to-night restaurant that also offers sunbeds and cabanas on a secluded bay in the exclusive Kavouri area.Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center: This is one of Athens’s most vibrant cultural destinations, complete with Renzo Piano architecture, landscaped gardens, and a rotating program of exhibitions and performances.Museum of Cycladic Art: The purity and simplicity of this museum embody the timelessness of Greek art. A pro tip from both Vivia and Mary? Don’t miss the museum’s shop.Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum: The first museum dedicated to the art of jewelry making in Greece is a must-visit, and the museum shop is no less awe-inspiring, featuring jewels from the eponymous brand as well as other Greek designers.Also try:KolonakiThe Intermission gallery in PiraeusAlekos Fassianos MuseumStefanidou Tsoukala GalleryShopCourtesy of Nina GarciaAncient Greek Sandals: What’s a trip to Greece without picking up the perfect pair of sandals? Visit the flagship store of this brand, founded by Christina and her business partner, Nikolas Minoglou, for quintessential Athenian styles—from gladiators to clogs and everything in between.Naxos Apothecary: This classic shop in the center of the city is known for its amazing range of skin care and hair products, perfumes, and homeopathic remedies—all created with natural ingredients and local botanicals.Nikos Koulis: A trip to the capital city is never quite worth it without a visit to the Athens-born designer’s flagship store, opened in 2024. There’s nothing like shopping in the city that inspired his distinctively Greek designs, blending classical geometric forms with an avant-garde edge.Mouki Mou: Hidden behind the souvenir shops of Plaka, Maria Lemos’s serene concept store is a chic escape from the crowds, offering her impeccable selection of fashion, jewelry, books, and homeware from both local and international designers.Lito Fine Jewelry: Known for designs that mix precious stones with intricate metalwork. Keep an eye out for hand-painted porcelain evil eyes.Martinos Antiques: “Like opening a magical Greek treasure chest,” is how Nikos explains this legendary antiques shop, which dates back to 1895. Expect to find kilim rugs from Turkey, valuable silver objets, rare ceramics, and furniture ranging from 1920s Art Deco to 1980s Memphis Group.Monastiraki Flea Market: The shops here are on the touristy side during the week, but come the weekend, the area turns into a vibrant flea market reminiscent of Marrakech’s souks or Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. Come early in the morning before the crowds—and search for kilim rugs, hand-carved statues and icons, vintage records, and every iteration of souvenir you could imagine. Keep an eye out for some good local olive oil or honey to bring home.Also try:The Store at the IlisianOikosYiannis SergakisIleana MakriZeus & DioneErato BookstoreEnny MonacoThe Benaki Museum ShopMaggooshWant to chat about my Insider Guide to Athens? Send me a note at ninagarciainsiderguide@hearst.com. I’ll see you next month. Until then, follow me at @ninagarcia on Instagram for real-time fashion and travel updates—and don’t forget to check out @elleusa too.SUBSCRIBE TO NINA GARCIA’S INSIDER GUIDE