VANESSA FRIEDMAN2026年10月22日周六，法国马赛一家爱马仕门店的店面遭到破坏。 Thibaud Moritz/Agence France-Presse — Getty ImagesAmid all of the images and videos that emerged of the riots that took place in France over the weekend, the most shocking are those of the clock tower collapsing in Limoges after its 19th-century town hall was set alight.在周末法国骚乱的众多图片和视频中，最令人震惊的莫过于利摩日那座19世纪市政厅被纵火后钟楼倒塌的画面。Close behind, however, are the shots of looters storming the gates of luxury brands like Celine, Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent, breaking through the plate-glass windows that act as a scrim between the outside world and the hushed interiors that cater to the ultrarich, smashing their sparkling vitrines and looting their goods.紧随其后的，是抢劫者冲进思琳、爱马仕、路易威登和圣罗兰等奢侈品牌门店的画面：他们冲破将外界与店内超级富豪专属静谧空间隔开的落地玻璃窗，砸碎闪闪发光的陈列柜，抢走商品。Of the estimated more than 3,000 shops that have been affected by the spiraling protests, including grocery stores, pharmacies and family-run operations, it is the luxury destruction that has caught much of the attention, and the imagination, of the watching world.受不断升级的抗议活动影响的店铺估计超过3000家，包括杂货店、药店和家族经营店铺，真正吸引外界大量关注、令人浮想联翩的，是奢侈品遭到的破坏。Whenever demonstrations are coupled with looting, they set off a conversation about wider, often inchoate, expressions of anger over inequality, not just in France but across the world. And though it would be easy to see this as yet another blip in a long history of using luxury products as a stand-in for social and economic injustice (one that stretches back to the French Revolution), it is also a response to a peculiarly contemporary reality the luxury industry itself has created.每当示威活动伴随抢劫发生，就会引发讨论，关乎对不平等问题的更广泛、往往并不明确的愤怒表达，这样的讨论不仅存在于法国，也遍布全世界。长期以来，奢侈品被当作社会和经济不公的替身，这样的历史可追溯到法国大革命，人们很容易将此次的现象当做这个漫长历史中的又一次小插曲，但它也是对奢侈品行业自身制造出的一种特殊当代现实的回应。The current situation is, after all, the third instance of physical attacks against luxury brands in the last eight years in the city that has styled itself the capital of luxury. In 2023, during the movement against government pension reform, protesters stormed the doors of the LVMH headquarters on Avenue Montaigne in Paris, waving sparklers and ultimately burning an effigy of Bernard Arnault, the billionaire owner of the group (and that year briefly the richest man in the world).毕竟，在这座自诩奢侈品之都的城市，这已是八年来第三次发生针对奢侈品牌的实体攻击。2023年，在反对政府养老金改革的运动中，抗议者冲上巴黎蒙田大道的路威酩轩集团总部大门，挥舞烟花棒，最终焚烧了该集团亿万富翁老板贝尔纳·阿尔诺的人像（当年他曾短暂成为世界首富）。周日，工作人员在巴黎一家受损的拉尔夫·劳伦门店外进行清理工作。In 2019, Dior and Chanel shops on the Champs-Élysées in Paris, among other luxury emporiums, were looted during demonstrations by the Gilets Jaunes (Yellow Vests), and boarded-up storefronts became a familiar sight.2019年，巴黎香榭丽舍大街上的迪奥和香奈儿等奢侈品商店在“黄背心”示威运动期间遭到抢劫，被木板封住的店面成为街头常见的景象。According to Serge Carreira, the director of the emerging brands initiative at the Fédération de la Haute Couture and an affiliated professor at the School of Management and Impact at Sciences Po, “France has always cultivated a love-hate relationship with luxury — proud of its global influence, suspicious of its morality and blaming its unequal essence.”高级定制时装联合会新兴品牌项目主任、巴黎政治学院管理与影响力学院兼职教授塞尔日·卡雷拉说：“法国对奢侈品一直保持着一种爱恨交织的感情——既为其全球影响力感到骄傲，又对其道德性心存疑虑，并指责其不平等的本质。”In some ways, it is exactly that influence, so assiduously cultivated by the brands themselves, that is now backfiring.在某些方面，正是品牌自身苦心经营的影响力，如今正在反噬它们。Luxury has used social media and its own cultural cachet to make itself ubiquitous in the lives of even those who can’t afford its products. Thanks to celebrity ambassadors, the transformation of fashion shows into entertainment and the red carpet into a marketing opportunity, everybody knows Dior, even if they will never buy a Dior. Ditto Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Burberry and more.奢侈品利用社交媒体和自身文化声望，甚至让那些买不起其产品的人也无时无刻不感受到它的存在。得益于明星代言、时装秀向娱乐的转变，以及红毯秀成为营销契机，人人都知道迪奥，即使他们永远不会买迪奥。路易威登、香奈儿、博柏利等也是如此。(Ironically, the weekend protests coincided with LVMH’s Journées Particulières, or Open Days, an initiative in which many of the group’s brands welcome the public into their ateliers and workshops, to share how the products are made and invite consumers into their otherwise closed world.)（具有讽刺意味的是，周末的抗议恰逢路威酩轩集团的“特别开放日”活动。这是一项由该集团旗下众多品牌共同发起的活动，向公众敞开工坊和工作室的大门，展示产品制作过程，并邀请消费者进入这个平时不对外开放的世界。）But paradoxically, as these brands have held themselves up as the epitome of aspiration and taste, they have also raised their prices to such levels that they are out of reach for almost everyone. They are emotionally and psychologically seductive but practically unattainable. As a result, “most of the younger generation feels excluded from this world,” Carreira said. “There is no more dream, just envy and rage.”但矛盾的是，当这些品牌把自己树立为追求和品味的典范时，它们也把价格提高到几乎所有人都无法企及的水平。它们在情感和心理上具有诱惑力，但在现实中遥不可及。结果，“大多数年轻一代觉得自己被排除在这个世界之外，”卡雷拉说。“不再有梦想，只有嫉妒和愤怒。”Those feelings found their expression in physical annihilation. By destroying the display windows of the opulent stores, Carreira said, the protesters are destroying a system that dangles only the promise of inclusion. “They escape the norm and reach a form of materialistic fulfillment,” he said.这些情绪以物理破坏的方式得到表达。卡雷拉说，通过破坏奢华商店的橱窗，抗议者摧毁的是一个仅以包容为诱饵的体系。“他们逃离规范，获得了一种物质层面的满足。”周日，一名保安人员在巴黎一家已被拆除的迪奥专卖店外站岗。By appropriating the products themselves, many of which have ended up on the luxury resale and black markets, the looters seized some of what had been otherwise denied them and literally brought it out to the street.通过占有这些产品本身——其中许多最终流入奢侈品转售和黑市——抢劫者夺走了一些原本被拒绝给予他们的东西，并且实实在在地把它们带到了街头。In this context, rather than being symbols of artisanship and patrimony, as luxury brands tend to describe themselves and their offerings, their goods become emblems of excess and capitalist rot.在这种背景之下，奢侈品商品不再是品牌通常自我描述的手工艺和遗产象征，而成为过度消费和资本主义腐朽的标志。As far as what will happen next, Dior, Celine and Hermès either did not respond to requests for comment, declined to comment on what happened with their stores or did not say what measures they had taken to protect them. Ralph Lauren did not respond to emails.至于接下来会发生什么，迪奥、思琳和爱马仕要么没有回应置评请求，要么拒绝就门店遭遇置评，要么没有说明采取了何种保护措施。拉夫·劳伦没有回复电子邮件。An internal note sent to LVMH employees on Oct. 19 by Antoine Arnault, the group head of communications and sustainability, and seen by The New York Times, noted that the group had “taken the appropriate measures to ensure everyone’s safety and the continuity of our operations.” (Reportedly, private security has been hired.) He also thanked the “artisans, virtuosos and all members of our teams,” calling them “our finest ambassadors.”《纽约时报》看到的一封路威酩轩集团传播与可持续发展主管安托万·阿尔诺10月19日发给员工的内部通知指出，集团已“采取适当措施，确保所有人安全以及我们运营的连续性”。（据报道，该集团已聘请私人安保。）他还感谢了“工匠、大师和我们团队的所有成员”，称他们为“我们最优秀的大使”。As curfews are imposed in France and cities gear up for another round of protests, the government is promising increased security. “I believe Avenue Montaigne and Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré will be Fort Knox next weekend and any other day of protest in the next weeks,” Carreira said.随着法国实施宵禁、各城市准备迎接新一轮抗议，政府承诺加强安保。卡雷拉说：“我相信，蒙田大道和圣奥诺雷郊区街下周末以及未来几周任何抗议日都会变成诺克斯堡。”Billionaires famously love a bunker, but do the brands that serve them really want to be stuck inside?众所周知，亿万富翁们都喜欢地堡，但服务于他们的品牌真的愿意被困在里面吗？Vanessa Friedman自2014年起一直任《纽约时报》时尚总监、首席时尚评论人。翻译：晋其角点击查看本文英文版。