HANNAH BEECH, MUKTITA SUHARTONO2026年9月8日 Valeria Mongelli for The New York TimesAfter 286 days at sea, the sailors and Marines of the warship Abraham Lincoln savored the pleasures of Pattaya, Thailand. Their indulgences were not all decadent.在海上航行286天后，亚伯拉罕·林肯号上的水兵和海军陆战队员尽情享受泰国芭堤雅，但他们的享受并非全是放纵。They ate Double Super Cheeseburgers at Burger King. They shopped for LeBron James jerseys at the mall. They sipped from fresh coconuts at the beach, their backs to the water where they had spent the last nine-plus months.他们在汉堡王吃双层超级芝士汉堡，在购物中心选购勒布朗·詹姆斯球衣，在海滩上啜饮新鲜椰子，背对着他们待了九个多月的大海。And they danced with scantily clad women at nightclubs, the pounding music seemingly even louder than the aural assault of an aircraft carrier at war.他们还在夜总会与衣着暴露的女子跳舞，震耳欲聋的音乐似乎比战时航母的噪音冲击还要猛烈。Pattaya is used to welcoming American servicemen. The beach town grew from an R&R refuge for American military personnel during the Vietnam War. For five days beginning on Wednesday, its pool halls, steakhouses and spas, its go-go bars, burrito shacks and trinket stalls have turned their attention to the 5,000 or so service members from the Lincoln, one of four carriers used in the air campaign against Iran.芭堤雅早已习惯接待美国军人。这座海滩城市最初是越南战争期间美国军人的休整之地。从周三开始的五天里，当地的台球厅、牛排馆、水疗中心、戈戈舞酒吧、墨西哥卷饼摊和廉价饰品店都把目光投向了林肯号上约5000名军人，林肯号是对伊朗空袭行动中动用的四艘航母之一。After a grueling deployment that fed criticism of the Trump administration’s execution of the war, the service members aboard the Lincoln had been instructed not to speak with members of the news media during their time in Pattaya.在经历了一次艰苦的部署后，林肯号上的军人被告知在芭堤雅期间不要接受新闻媒体采访；他们的这次部署引发了对特朗普政府战争实施方式的批评。Nevertheless, seven sailors confirmed, on the condition of anonymity, that the carrier’s long months at sea, especially without any of the normal stops at so-called liberty ports, had sapped both supplies and morale. They spoke of clogged toilets and, alarmingly, of multiple suicide attempts. (Navy officials have denied an increase in suicide attempts on the Lincoln.) Amid Iranian missile barrages and drone attacks, the half-day shifts merged into a Sisyphean blur, without the usual relief of care packages from home or treats from the ship store.尽管如此，七名水兵匿名证实，航母在海上度过的漫长数月——尤其是没有在“休憩港”进行任何正常停靠——已经耗尽了补给和士气。他们谈到厕所堵塞，还警惕地谈到多起自杀未遂事件。（海军官员否认林肯号上自杀未遂事件有所增加。）在伊朗导弹齐射和无人机袭击中，原本的半日轮班混成了一团，且没有了来自家里的关怀包裹或舰上商店零食带来的惯常宽慰。Meals were rationed, they said, and offered up a monotony of carbs. What she was really craving, one sailor said, was a salad, something green and fresh. Was there one to be had in Pattaya? There was.他们说，餐食实行配给，供应的是一成不变的碳水化合物。一名女水兵说，她真正想吃的是沙拉，一些绿色、新鲜的东西。芭堤雅有吗？有。周三，林肯号航母停靠在芭提雅附近的林查班港。在有关此次部署令船员备受煎熬的报道传出后，这艘军舰成为热议的焦点。The worst, a sailor from Illinois said, was not knowing how much longer they would be at sea. He stopped counting the days at around 200, despairing that the deployment might never end. Another sailor, a New York native, said that he had gone through a dozen deployments without incident, but this time he had watched junior sailors break, one by one. The price of war, he said, was something he was willing to bear, but not when a logistical crisis, which left the carrier with dwindling supplies, seemed preventable.来自伊利诺伊州的一名水兵说，最糟糕的是不知道他们还要在海上待多久。数到大约200天时，他停止计算天数，绝望地认为部署可能永远不会结束。另一名来自纽约的水兵说，自己经历过十几次部署都平安无事，但这一次他看着年轻水兵一个接一个崩溃。他说，战争的代价他愿意承担，但一场后勤危机使航母补给日益减少，而且这似乎本可避免，这让他无法接受。Did they, he continued — not defining the “they” — think for a moment about the mental health of those aboard the Lincoln? Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth has said that reports of difficult conditions aboard the Lincoln were “misrepresented.” President Trump opined that the Lincoln’s deployment was “not nearly long enough.”他接着说，他们（没有说明指谁）是否想过林肯号上那些人的心理健康？国防部长皮特·海格塞思曾表示，有关林肯号上条件艰苦的报道被“歪曲”了。特朗普总统则认为林肯号的部署“还远远不够久”。芭提雅一家酒吧用气球摆出美国国旗图案。这里的商家欢迎林肯号船员的到来。The residents of Pattaya, at least, appeared to understand the hardship borne by the crew of the Lincoln, which will head next toward its home port, San Diego. Pattaya’s mayor turned up to greet the men and women touching dry land for the first time since November. A gem shop offered discounts to the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps personnel. The Sapphire Club, an adult entertainment venue, dispatched three women in strapless black bodysuits to hold placards offering discounts for those with valid U.S. military ID.至少芭堤雅居民似乎理解林肯号船员承受的艰辛。这艘航母接下来将驶向母港圣迭戈。芭堤雅市长现身迎接自11月以来首次踏上陆地的男女军人。一家宝石店向美国海军和海军陆战队人员提供折扣。成人娱乐场所蓝宝石俱乐部派出三名身穿无肩带黑色连体衣的女性举着标语牌，向持有有效美国军人身份证件的人提供折扣。At the Tahitian Queen, which bills itself as the oldest bar in Pattaya, circa 1978, Mickey Foth, one of the owners and an American military veteran and former Pentagon employee, teared up as he considered the sacrifices made by the Lincoln’s personnel.在自称芭堤雅最古老酒吧、约1978年开业的塔希提女王酒吧，老板之一、美国退伍军人、前五角大楼雇员米基·福斯想到林肯号人员作出的牺牲时热泪盈眶。“It’s not just the physical stress, it’s the emotional toll of such a long deployment,” he said, as a line of women in bikinis, one in an American flag pattern, gyrated onstage. “I want to be here, front and center, to say to these men and women, ‘Thank you for your service.’”“这不仅是身体上的压力，还有如此长时间部署带来的情感损耗，”他说，此时一排穿着比基尼的女子在舞台上扭动，其中一人穿着美国国旗图案。“我想站在这里，站在最前面最中心的位置，对这些男男女女说：‘感谢你们为国效力。’”米基·福斯在他的塔希提女王酒吧。 Valeria Mongelli for The New York Times塔希提女王酒吧的酒客。 Valeria Mongelli for The New York Times在芭提雅一家酒吧橱窗里跳舞的女子。On Thursday night, some of the young sailors blushed amid the sexual maelstrom of Pattaya’s Walking Street, with its touts offering intricate shows involving improbably placed pingpong balls. Others, in the throbbing confines of nightclubs, downed shots and leaned close to female companions. Most of the women were Thai, some were Eastern European and Russian, a few were from neighboring countries like Myanmar and Laos or from as far away as Uganda and Uzbekistan.周四晚上，一些年轻水兵在芭堤雅步行街的色情漩涡中显得有些腼腆，街上在兜售各种复杂表演，内容包括将乒乓球放在不可思议的位置。还有一些人在夜总会悸动的封闭空间里灌下烈酒，将身体贴向女性同伴。这些女性大多是泰国人，也有一些来自东欧和俄罗斯，少数来自缅甸、老挝等邻国，还有乌干达、乌兹别克斯坦等遥远国家。Prostitution is illegal in Thailand, but you wouldn’t know it in Pattaya. Ever since American bombing missions took off from a nearby Thai air base during the Vietnam War, the village of Pattaya rapidly expanded its red-light district. Business boomed. With the arrival of the Lincoln, local entrepreneurs talked up the positive effect on Pattaya’s economy.卖淫在泰国是非法的，但在芭堤雅丝毫看不出这一点。自越南战争期间美国轰炸机从附近一个泰国空军基地起飞以来，芭堤雅这个村庄迅速扩展了红灯区，生意兴隆。随着林肯号的到来，当地商界人士纷纷宣扬其对芭堤雅经济的积极影响。In earlier decades, some women and girls from Thailand’s poor northeast were sold by their families into sex work in Pattaya. While local aid groups say such human trafficking has waned, the criminalization of prostitution, even as it is openly tolerated, can put prostitutes at the mercy of corrupt forces or periodic crackdowns. In the days leading up to the Lincoln’s docking at a nearby port, the police in Pattaya launched an anti-prostitution raid that, like many before it, seemed to have had little lingering effect, apart from stigmatizing the women.早前几十年，一些来自泰国贫困东北部地区的妇女和女孩被家人卖到芭堤雅从事性工作。当地援助组织表示，此类人口贩运虽已减少，但卖淫被定为犯罪——尽管执行上显然很宽松——可能使性工作者任由腐败势力摆布或遭受周期性打击。在林肯号停靠附近港口前的几天里，芭堤雅警方发起反卖淫突击行动，与以往许多次一样，除了给这些女性带来污名外，似乎没有产生什么持久影响。Today, servicemen are a much smaller demographic in Pattaya, compared to tourists from India, China and the Middle East. Amid the sex shows and vendors selling tubes of personal lubricant, vacationing families toted sleeping children, taking in the scene.如今，与来自印度、中国和中东的游客相比，军人在芭堤雅只是一个很小的群体。在性表演和兜售管装人体润滑剂的小贩之间，度假的家庭背着熟睡的孩子，观赏着这番喧嚣景象。“Pattaya has been able to develop itself as a tourist destination, not only for sex tourism but also for culture, temples, family,” said Chanan Yodhong, a gender and sexual equality activist.“芭堤雅已发展成为一个旅游目的地，不仅面向性旅游，也面向文化、寺庙和家庭旅游，”性别与性平等活动人士差南·约东说。On Thursday night, as some sailors and Marines strolled or sat on the curb reeling from too much to drink, a corps of tourist police stood at attention before scattering into the crowds. There were also volunteer officers, residents who are originally from other parts of Asia, Europe and the Middle East.周四晚上，一些水兵和陆战队员或在路边漫步，或因饮酒过量摇摇晃晃坐在路边，一队旅游警察立正站立，随后分散进入人群。还有一些志愿警官，他们是原本来自亚洲、欧洲和中东其他地区的居民。Among them was Hooman Peseshk, a native of Iran, who has lived in Pattaya for 10 years. He recognized the irony of his patrolling the streets with a shipful of American sailors returning from the war in Iran. But he loved Pattaya, he said, for its status as a free port, where almost anything goes.其中一位是伊朗人胡曼·佩塞什克，已在芭堤雅生活10年。他意识到自己与一船从伊朗战争归来的美国水兵一起走在街上颇具讽刺意味。但他说，他爱芭堤雅，因为这里是一个几乎什么都可以发生的自由港。“Nobody wants to fight in a war that was started because of our leaders,” he said. “We are all brothers here in Pattaya.”“没有人想参加一场因为我们的领导人而爆发的战争，”他说。“在芭堤雅，我们都是兄弟。”芭提雅最初是作为越南战争期间美国军人的休整地发展起来的。Despite the beach town’s reputation, many others from the Lincoln said they had no interest in exploring Play Girlz, KINK or the Harem Ultra go-go club. Instead, they dined poolside at the Hilton. They tried out foot spas where little fish nibbled off calluses. At the Hard Rock Hotel, where the minibar comes stocked with chocolate- and strawberry- flavored condoms, a member of the Lincoln crew said he was planning to spend the night ordering room service for one and watching sports on the big-screen TV.尽管这个海滩小镇名声在外，林肯号上其他许多人表示，他们没兴趣去探索Play Girlz、KINK或Harem Ultra戈戈舞俱乐部。他们选择在希尔顿酒店泳池边用餐，尝试让小鱼啃掉老茧的足部水疗。在硬石酒店，迷你吧里备有巧克力和草莓味避孕套，一名林肯号船员说，他计划当晚叫一人份客房送餐服务，在大屏幕电视上看体育节目。One sailor said that after so many months aboard the carrier — with its frantic sirens, clattering pipes, screaming jet engines, explosive catapult launches — what he missed most was silence. Pattaya is many things, but it is not quiet. For that the sailor would have to wait.一名水兵说，在航母上待了这么久——伴随疯狂的警报、咔嗒作响的管道、尖啸的喷气发动机、轰鸣的弹射起飞，他最想念的是宁静。芭堤雅有很多特点，但唯独不安静。要得到宁静，这名水兵还得等待。John Ismay自华盛顿对本文有报道贡献。Hannah Beech是《纽约时报》记者，常驻曼谷。她报道亚洲新闻超过25年，主要进行深度和调查报道。Muktita Suhartono报道泰国和印度尼西亚新闻，常驻曼谷。翻译：经雷点击查看本文英文版。