VANESSA FRIEDMAN2026年9月26日周四，在白宫举行的国宴前，特朗普总统、梅拉尼娅·特朗普、习近平主席及夫人彭丽媛合影留念。 Doug Mills/The New York TimesWell, that was a surprise.这可真是出人意料。In what may have been a first for an American first lady, Melania Trump did something at the state dinner for China’s leader on Thursday night that none of her predecessors had likely done before: She wore pants.在周四晚为中国领导人举行的国宴上，梅拉尼娅·特朗普做了一件可能是美国第一夫人史上前所未有、她的各位前任大概都没做过的事：她穿了裤子。Pants! To a black-tie banquet. Especially a black-tie banquet taking place at a highly sensitive time in global geopolitics and economic relations.裤子！还是穿去参加正装晚宴。更何况，这场正装晚宴正值全球地缘政治和经济关系极为敏感的时期。Specifically, Mrs. Trump wore a pair of peony-print Dolce & Gabbana black tuxedo pants with a white Saint Laurent blouse displaying an enormous bow to join her husband in welcoming the Chinese president, Xi Jinping; his wife, Peng Liyuan; and assorted dignitaries (including many tech executives) to the formal occasion.具体来说，特朗普夫人穿了一条印有牡丹图案的杜嘉班纳黑色礼服长裤，搭配一件带有巨大蝴蝶结的圣罗兰白色衬衫。她与丈夫一起出席这个正式场合，迎接中国国家主席习近平、其夫人彭丽媛以及各界要人（包括许多科技高管）。The peony print on the pants may have been a nod to that flower’s importance in Chinese culture, where it is a symbol of beauty, wealth and happiness. In the end though, that subtle gesture was less significant than the norm-busting choice of the pants themselves on an occasion that has traditionally been synonymous with elaborate gowns. Or at least evening skirts.裤装上的牡丹图案或许是在致意这种花在中国文化中的重要地位，在中国，它是美丽、财富和幸福的象征。不过，在这样一个传统上与华丽礼服（或至少是晚礼服裙）画等号的场合，这种微妙的致敬远不如选择长裤这一打破常规的举动本身更有意义。Pants for evening is no longer a radical idea in most situations, but in a city that has become the last bastion of the suit and tie, where staid rules about fashion and the clothing that is fit for office still apply, they were a statement.在大多数情况下，晚宴穿裤装已不再是一个激进的想法，但在这个已成为西装领结最后堡垒的城市，在有关时尚和职场着装的古板规则依然适用的地方，这个选择就成为一种宣言。Especially in contrast with the more classic dress of Ms. Peng — a long gown with a Mandarin collar in red, China’s color of prosperity — as well as Mr. Trump’s tuxedo and Mr. Xi’s Zhongshan suit, standard choices both. (Not to mention the apparently matching navy suits and magenta ties they wore during their meeting earlier in the day.)特别是，这与彭丽媛更为经典的着装形成鲜明对比——彭丽媛身穿中式立领红色长礼服，红色在中国象征着繁荣——还有特朗普的无尾礼服和习近平的中山装，两者都是标准的选择）。（更不用说他们两人在当天早些时候会面时所穿、看似很搭配的海军蓝西装和洋红色领带。）梅拉尼娅·特朗普身着杜嘉班纳长裤和圣罗兰衬衫，与身着经典红色礼服的彭丽媛一同步入国宴现场。When it comes to Melania Trump, however, the pants were also entirely on brand. They reflected the first lady’s continued reluctance to conform to archetypal expectations for first spouses.然而，就梅拉尼娅·特朗普而言，裤装也完全符合她的个人风格。这反映出这位第一夫人一如既往地不愿顺从人们对第一配偶这一角色的刻板期待。And they underscored once again the individual brand Mrs. Trump has been building since the release of her documentary earlier this year, with its focus on slick black-and-white graphics and luxury labels, on-screen as in her wardrobe. (That they also matched the pandas Mr. Xi offered to the Atlanta zoo as “envoys of friendship” was probably a coincidence.)这也再次凸显了特朗普夫人自今年早些时候她的纪录片发布以来一直在打造的个人品牌形象，无论是银幕上还是她的衣橱里，都以精致的黑白图形和奢侈品牌为特色。（至于这样的打扮刚好与习近平作为“友谊的使者”赠送给亚特兰大动物园的大熊猫相呼应，大概只是个巧合。）Indeed, a Dolce & Gabbana pantsuit has become a uniform of sorts for the first lady since her husband returned to office. She wore Dolce for her official portrait in 2025 (the one that made her look like chairman of the board), to the White House dinner with governors the same year and to the State of the Union address earlier this year.事实上，自从她丈夫重返白宫以来，杜嘉班纳的裤装已经成为这位第一夫人的某种制服。她在2025年拍摄官方肖像时（那张让她看起来像董事会主席的照片）、在同年各州州长出席的白宫晚宴上，以及在今年早些时候的国情咨文演讲中，穿的都是杜嘉班纳。The look suggests that she views her role less like that of the hostess of the nation and more like that of an executive in a giant corporation. The buttoned-up styles also guard against the intrusive eyes and demands of the watching world and the country the first family represents.这种造型表明，她将自己的角色更多地视为一家巨型企业的高管，而非国家的女主人。这种严谨的风格也帮她抵御外界窥探的目光与种种要求——这一切既来自注视着她的世界，也来自第一家庭所代表的国家。周四，第一夫人身着亚历山大·麦昆套装。周三，第一夫人身着纪梵希细条纹西装，在安德鲁斯联合基地迎接彭丽媛。You could see it with the giant bow on the blouse Mrs. Trump wore to the state dinner, which jutted out like a shield from the shirt’s equally protective high neck. You could see it in the military-style charcoal Alexander McQueen skirt suit she wore earlier in the day to tour the Smithsonian alongside Ms. Peng, with the jacket’s officer collar and side closure. And you could see it in the Givenchy pinstriped suit she wore to accompany her husband to Joint Base Andrews for the arrival of the Chinese leader.从特朗普夫人国宴所穿衬衫上的巨大蝴蝶结可以看出这一点，它像盾牌一样，从同样具有保护性的衬衫高领处突出。你可以从她当天早些时候陪同彭丽媛参观史密森尼学会时穿的军装风炭灰色亚历山大·麦昆裙装中看出这一点，那件外套带有军官领和侧边纽扣。你还可以从她陪同丈夫前往安德鲁斯联合基地迎接中国领导人到来时穿的纪梵希细条纹套装中看出这一点。That’s why, though it would be nice to interpret Mrs. Trump’s choice of pants as a win for women’s liberation everywhere (really, it is ridiculous that it took until 2026 for a first lady to wear pants to a state dinner), it seems unlikely that the motivating factor was gender advancement. Rather than, say, personal priorities.正因如此，尽管将特朗普夫人选择裤装解读为全球女性解放的胜利，这样的说法听起来很美好（说真的，直到2026年才有一位第一夫人穿裤装出席国宴，这太荒唐了），但其背后的动机似乎不太可能是为了推动性别进步，倒不如说是出于个人事项的优先考量。Vanessa Friedman自2014年以来一直担任时报时尚总监和首席时尚评论家。