From famine to royal kitchens: The fascinating story of dum cooking

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From aromatic biryanis to slow-cooked curries, dum cooking has been an integral part of Indian culinary tradition for generations. This technique is about retention inside a pot and is a timeless culinary art that celebrates patience, simplicity, and flavour. Chef Nicole Gonsalves, Founder and Culinary Director of Tavora Smokehouse, says, “Dum cooking works by sealing. A handi is closed with dough so that steam, fat, and volatile aromatics have nowhere to escape.” The magic happens inside the closed handi.But before we see what this technique does to a dish, let’s learn a little about its history.DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine.The legend of dum cookingMukesh Joshi, Chef de Cuisine, Indiya, Cinnamon Life at City of Dreams Sri Lanka, says, “The story of dum cooking traces its roots to Awadh in the late eighteenth century. During a period of famine, people needed to prepare large quantities of food efficiently to feed the common people. Huge handis filled with rice, meat, vegetables, and spices were sealed and left to cook slowly over low heat.”What began as a practical solution soon evolved into a celebrated culinary tradition, and the technique did not disappear even after the famine eased.“The royal khansamas of Awadh recognised that food cooked in sealed vessels possessed a remarkable depth of flavour and aroma. Intrigued by the results, they refined the method and adapted it for the Nawab’s royal kitchens. Spices were blended more carefully, meats were marinated with greater attention, and aromatic rice varieties were selected to create dishes worthy of royalty,” he explains.Over time, dum cooking became a hallmark of Awadhi cuisine and earned a reputation for elegance and refinement.Story continues below this adYet, despite its association with royal dining, dum cooking has never lost sight of its humble origins.Awadhi dum cooking was never intended to be famous. Chef Joshi says it was created to provide comfort, nourishment, and sustenance. Its journey from feeding the masses during difficult times to becoming one of India’s most respected culinary traditions reminds us that the greatest food stories often begin with compassion, necessity, and a passion for feeding people well.ALSO READ | More than a gravy: Food expert on the problem with calling everything ‘curry’What does dum cooking really do to a dish?In this method, the food is cooked slowly over a gentle flame. Burning charcoal is placed both below and above the vessel, allowing the heat to circulate evenly from all sides.Chef Joshi says, “As the pot remains tightly sealed, the moisture, aromas, and flavours are trapped inside, enabling the ingredients to cook in their own juices. This slow process enhances every element of the dish, creating rich flavours, tender textures, and an unmistakable aroma that defines the essence of dum cooking.”Story continues below this ad“This style of cooking is of course not just restricted to biryanis, but various other preparations such as korma, nihari, haleem, raan, other meat curries and even dal,” adds Prachi Chandra, Lead Clinical Nutritionist, Sakra World Hospital. Dum cooking is widely associated with biryani and is also used for dishes such as korma, nihari and haleem. (Image Source: Pexels)Health benefits of dum cookingAs the food cooks gradually, spices, herbs, and natural juices blend, enhancing flavour and tenderness while reducing the need for frequent stirring or extra cooking liquid.“One potential advantage of dum cooking is that the cooking liquid is retained rather than discarded, preserving some water-soluble nutrients, particularly certain B vitamins, which may otherwise leach into the water during cooking. Retaining the liquid can help preserve these nutrients in the final dish,” says ChandraThe enclosed cooking environment also has its own benefits.“It limits exposure to air, although heat-sensitive vitamins can still be lost during prolonged cooking,” adds Chandra.Another advantage is flavour development.Story continues below this adThe aroma of spices and herbs can make food appealing without necessarily requiring excessive oil or ghee, says Chandra, adding that slow cooking also improves the tenderness of ingredients, while adequate cooking of legumes helps reduce certain anti-nutritional factors and improves digestibility.Is dum cooking superior to steaming and pressure cooking?Currently, insufficient scientific evidence shows that dum cooking is nutritionally superior to steaming, pressure cooking, or other methods.Its benefits, Chandra says, depend on the food being prepared and how the technique is used. Dum cooking itself is not unhealthy, but the ingredients can make a significant difference. Traditional biryanis may contain generous amounts of ghee, oil, salt, and white rice, increasing their calorie content and making them energy-dense despite being prepared using a traditional cooking method.“Prolonged heating can also reduce heat-sensitive nutrients, particularly vitamin C and some B vitamins. For people managing diabetes, obesity or cardiovascular disease, portion size and the overall composition of the meal are especially important. Including vegetables, an appropriate protein source and moderate amounts of added fat can improve the nutritional balance of a dum-cooked meal,” she explains.Story continues below this adDum cooking is a valuable culinary tradition that combines flavour, texture and the practical benefit of retaining cooking juices. However, Chandra warns that no single cooking method can compensate for excessive oil, salt or oversized portions.The healthiest approach is to preserve the traditional technique while making thoughtful ingredient choices. A balanced dum-cooked meal, prepared with plenty of vegetables, protein, and moderate fat, can fit comfortably into a healthy eating pattern.DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine.