Since that formative moment when you ate your first chocolate chip cookie — maybe dunked in milk, maybe during day-care snack time, maybe homemade, from your family’s oven — your tastes have probably changed. I know mine have. Plus, chocolate chip cookies have changed. And so has store-bought chocolate chip cookie dough.Gone are the days when just one yellow-wrapped log (you know the one) was all you’d see in the refrigerated section. Now there’s cookie dough that’s poised to meet the new demands of today’s chocolate chip cookie lover.A sparkly shower of sea salt and bronzed brown butter — flourishes once limited to the new trendy bakery on the block — are now available in your supermarket’s fridge or freezer case. As are a swath of doughs tailored to gluten-free, plant-based, or low-sugar diets. It’s no longer just a question of chewy versus crispy; there’s so much more to quibble over.We tested 21 ready-to-bake chocolate chip cookie doughs, including nine gluten-free or plant-based options, to find the ones with crispiest edges, the chewiest centers, and plenty of buttery, chocolaty flavor. Many cookies didn’t impress, including some of those nostalgic favorites. But three clear winners rose to the top as close-to-homemade treats.