Few foods do high-low versatility like canned tuna. You can fold a $2 tin of chunk light into a mountain of mayo for an economical lunch, or you can layer a can of sustainably caught yellowfin atop a Niçoise salad elegant enough to serve to company.The latter fancy possibilities are largely due to the renaissance of canned tuna we’re living through. Even just a decade ago, the canned tuna aisle was dominated by a handful of brands, with inexpensive water-packed varieties taking up most of the shelf space. But Americans have woken up to the magic of tinned fish in recent years, and tuna traders have taken notice.Wirecutter’s kitchen experts tasted nearly 40 cans of tuna, looking for the most flavorful, snackable, tuna-salad-able fish out there. And though we had to endure many sludgy tins along the way, we eventually found seven cans that we’d eagerly make staples — many of which you can find in your local grocery store at much better prices than you’d find online.