ABDI LATIF DAHIR2026年7月6日周六，德黑兰市中心的人群站在一幅年轻时的阿亚图拉阿里·哈梅内伊画像下方。在这座首都的各个角落都能看到这位已故领导人的肖像。 Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, Iran’s slain supreme leader, had seemed immovable for decades, a man whose authority had become so deeply woven into Iran’s political and religious life that imagining the country without him felt almost impossible.伊朗被杀的最高领袖阿亚图拉阿里·哈梅内伊数十年来似乎不可撼动。他的权威已深深交织在伊朗的政治与宗教生活中，以至于几乎无法想象一个没有他的国家。Now Tehran — the capital from which he ruled, where he was killed and which had shaped his life — is the center of his final journey, filled with mourners for funeral ceremonies taking place across several days, which are part farewell, part spectacle and part turning point.如今，德黑兰——这座他曾在此执政、遇刺身亡、并塑造了他一生的首都——成为了他最后旅程的中心。这里挤满了前来参加为期数天葬礼的哀悼者，这些仪式既是告别，也是奇观，更是一种转折点。In the days leading up to the first public mourning, the city changed. First gradually, and then all at once, in the way cities often change before moments of consequence.在首次公开悼念活动前的几天里，这座城市发生了变化。起初是渐渐地，然后是突如其来地，就像城市在重大历史时刻到来前常有的变化那样。Families from provincial towns rolled into Tehran, joining masses who revered Ayatollah Khamenei as patriarch and guardian of the Islamic republic, an order that so many others had long opposed while suffering under its deep repression. Foreign officials, many from authoritarian nations, militia members and religious leaders flew from all over the world, reflecting both Iran’s global reach and its distance from the West.来自各省城镇的家庭涌入德黑兰，加入了将阿亚图拉·哈梅内伊尊为伊斯兰共和国大家长和守护者的民众行列；而这个政权长久以来也曾遭到许多人的反对，他们长期遭受严酷的压迫。来自世界各地的外国官员（其中许多来自威权国家）、民兵成员和宗教领袖纷纷飞抵这里，这既反映了伊朗的全球影响力，也体现了它与西方之间的距离。We traveled there as well, the first visit by New York Times journalists to the country since before the United States and Israel attacked Iran in late February and the government cracked down brutally on protests that started in December. We found a country trying to project strength and stability but pervaded by uncertainty.我们也前往了那里，这是自伊朗政府对始于去年12月的抗议活动进行残酷镇压、2月下旬美国和以色列袭击伊朗以来，《纽约时报》记者首次访问该国。我们发现，这个国家正努力展现力量与稳定，但处处依然弥漫着不确定性。We arrived in Tehran, a dense city of around nine million that spreads outward in a sprawl of apartment blocks, glass towers and tree-lined boulevards, with neighborhoods that shift in character from one district to the next. Beside the pomp and circumstance, war-damaged buildings stood scarred along major roads and daily life was still shaped by water shortages and electricity blackouts. Families who lost loved ones in the crackdown were still living with grief — and hoping for justice.我们抵达了德黑兰，在这座有约900万人口的密集城市，公寓楼、玻璃塔楼和绿树成荫的大道向外蔓延，街区风貌各不相同。在隆重的排场之外，因战争受损的建筑伤痕累累，矗立于主干道两旁矗立，日常生活仍受到缺水和停电的困扰。在镇压中失去亲人的家庭仍生活在悲痛之中，同时也期盼正义得以伸张。周五，德黑兰市中心的恩格拉布广场上，悼念者挥舞着伊朗国旗。周五晚上，悼念者们在祈祷。周五，一名街头小贩兜售阿亚图拉哈梅内伊和其他伊朗领导人的肖像画。As more people arrived, Ayatollah Khamenei’s presence seemed to expand with them. Across major highways and narrow alleys, in small cafes and sprawling bookstores, portraits of him began to cover the city.随着越来越多的人抵达，阿亚图拉哈梅内伊的身影似乎也在随之扩张。无论是在主要高速公路还是狭窄的小巷，无论是小咖啡馆还是宽敞的书店，他的画像开始覆盖这座城市。Some show him young, with a dark beard and a stern expression. Others portray the older man many Iranians had grown used to seeing over decades, his beard turned white with age. In some, Ayatollah Khamenei appears beside Mojtaba, his son and successor, the pairing feeling less like a portrait than the passing of one chapter into the next.有些画像上的他很年轻，留着深色胡须，表情严厉。还有一些描绘了许多伊朗人数十年来早已习惯看到的那个老人，胡须因年迈而变白。在部分画像中，阿亚图拉哈梅内伊与他的儿子兼继任者穆杰塔巴并肩出现，这样的组合与其说是肖像，不如说更像是一个时代的落幕与新篇章的开启。The funeral preparations unfolded with the choreography of a major state event. Security checkpoints, organized transportation, public announcements, carefully arranged ceremonial spaces.葬礼的准备工作按照重大国家活动的规划有条不紊地展开。安全检查站、组织有序的交通、公众通告，以及精心布置的仪式空间。We were granted restricted access to the funeral ceremonies by the Iranian government, which closely controlled our movements, and which required a translator and guide to accompany us. It was a quiet reminder of how closely the story itself was being choreographed, and who was permitted to tell it.伊朗政府允许我们有限度地进入葬礼仪式，但密切控制我们的行动，并要求翻译和向导陪同。这是一个无声的提醒：报道本身也在被严密地规划，谁被允许讲述它也是如此。The streets, too, were managed and staged.街道同样受到管控和布置。Along Valiasr Street, where traffic usually performs its daily ritual of impatience and frustration, movement slowed as the roads gradually surrendered to the funeral preparations. Workers built stations to feed and give water to those arriving to mourn him.瓦利亚斯尔大道平日的交通总是充斥着日常的焦躁与沮丧，随着道路逐渐让位于葬礼筹备工作，如今车流变得缓慢。工人们搭建了站点，为前来悼念的人们提供食物和水。Loudspeakers sent chants and laments through the air, and praised the supreme leader who was killed at the onset of the U.S.-Israeli war against Iran.扩音器播放着圣歌和哀乐，赞颂这位在美以对伊朗战争爆发之初被杀的最高领袖。A little farther away, at Enghelab Square, another version of Tehran moved beneath a giant mourning billboard.在稍远一点的恩格拉布广场，另一个德黑兰在一块巨大的哀悼广告牌下悄然呈现。周五的恩格拉布广场。即举行葬礼的大莫萨拉清真寺里的女学生们。周五，公众获准瞻仰哈梅内伊大阿亚图拉灵柩的前一天，街头设立了一个食品饮料摊位。Young women with uncovered hair and cigarettes in hand, and men with pierced ears, crossed paths with conservative women in black chadors carrying Iranian flags and praying quietly. It was an image that seemed to contain the contradictions of Iran itself: a nation Ayatollah Khamenei had shaped for decades, and one that, in his final years, had increasingly pushed back against the boundaries of his oppressive rule.没戴头巾、手拿香烟的年轻女子和戴着耳钉的男子与穿着黑色罩袍、举着伊朗国旗、静静祈祷的保守女性擦肩而过。这个画面似乎凝聚了伊朗本身的矛盾：这是一个哈梅内伊塑造了数十年的国家，但在他生命的最后几年，这个国家却日益挑战他专制统治的界限。We lingered for almost two hours at the square, where most people were unwilling to talk to us, wary of foreign media. We asked to interview a woman with blond hair, a dark blue denim skirt, full makeup and a hijab barely resting at the edge of her hair. She smiled softly and said, “I am afraid I won’t be able to say what’s in my heart.”我们在广场上逗留了近两个小时，那里的大多数人都不愿与我们交谈，对外国媒体保持警惕。我们请求采访一位一头金发、穿深蓝色牛仔裙、化着全妆、头巾只是搭在头发边缘的女士。她微微一笑，说道：“恐怕我无法说出心里话。”At the square, some people stopped to photograph the giant statue of a clenched fist. Others kept walking and driving by. Every evening, life continued beneath the preparations, ordinary rhythms folding themselves into something much larger. Street vendors calling out, motorcycles weaving between cars, tea glasses clinking in small cafes.在广场上，有些人停下脚步，拍摄那座紧握的拳头的巨型雕像。也有人继续步行，或驱车经过。每天傍晚，生活在筹备工作之下继续，平凡的节奏融入了更宏大的图景之中。街头小贩高声叫卖，摩托车在汽车间穿梭，小咖啡馆里茶杯叮当作响。Beneath the banners and portraits was another Tehran, a city worn by months of pressure.在横幅和画像之下，是另一个德黑兰，一座被几个月来的压力消磨的城市。A regional war with Israel last year compounded a financial malaise exacerbated by sanctions. Those economic frustrations boiled over into mass protests beginning in late December that the authorities crushed, killing thousands. Then came the war with the United States and Israel, taking the lives of young children at school, damaging historic sites like Golestan Palace and leaving residents checking the skies and refreshing news alerts. The past months had seemed to compress multiple eras of strain into a single season.去年与以色列的地区战争加剧了因制裁而恶化的经济萎靡。这些经济上的挫败感在12月下旬演变为大规模抗议活动，当局予以镇压，导致数千人死亡。随后爆发了与美国和以色列的战争，这场战争夺走了学校幼童的生命，破坏了古列斯坦宫等历史遗迹，让居民们不得不时刻留意天空，不断刷新新闻警报。过去的几个月，多个时代的压力仿佛被浓缩到一个季节之中。And states — especially autocratic ones like Iran’s — often answer uncertainty with scale.而国家——尤其是像伊朗这样的专制国家——往往会用大规模的排场来应对不确定性。So this exhausted capital has suddenly found itself transformed into the stage for a burial spectacle of extraordinary proportions.因此，这座疲惫不堪的首都突然间变成了一场规模空前的葬礼盛典的舞台。周六，大莫萨拉的悼念者们。历史悠久的古列斯坦宫内部受损。周六，经过大莫萨拉的安检处。At the Grand Mosalla, a sprawling mosque complex in Tehran, tens of thousands arrived this weekend dressed almost entirely in black to pray for and pay their respects to the Shiite Muslim patriarch. They cried and wailed openly. They struck their chests and heads in ritual mourning. Some sat on the ground, weary and stunned.本周末，数万名身着黑色服装的信徒涌入德黑兰庞大的大莫萨拉清真寺，为这位什叶派穆斯林大家长祈祷并致敬。他们公开哭泣和哀号，按照悼念仪式捶打胸膛和头部。一些人疲惫而茫然地坐在地上。“Khamenei was the foundation of our lives,” said Mohamed Soleimani, from Tehran, who sat at the mosque’s grounds, head bowed, holding a photo of Mojtaba Khamenei.“哈梅内伊是我们生活的根基，”来自德黑兰的穆罕默德·苏莱马尼说，他低着头坐在清真寺广场上，手拿穆杰塔巴·哈梅内伊的照片。Grief also gave way to anger. Fists rose in the air. Chants of revenge filled the space — directed at Israel, at the United States and, repeatedly, at one man whose name was taken up again and again by the crowd: Donald J. Trump.悲痛逐渐转化为愤怒。人们高举拳头，复仇的呼声响彻全场——矛头直指以色列、美国，人群一次又一次地反复呼喊着一个人的名字：唐纳德·J·特朗普。The funeral, which will continue in the coming days through Tehran, other Iranian cities and even neighboring Iraq, seems designed to do something larger than simply bury a leader.这场葬礼将在未来几天内陆续在德黑兰、伊朗其他城市乃至邻国伊拉克举行，目的似乎不仅限于安葬一位领导人，亦旨在实现某种更宏大的目标。It is an effort to project continuity at a moment when the country itself seems caught in a period of transition and uncertainty.在国家本身似乎正处于转型与不确定时期之际，这是为了展现国家政权的延续性。So Iran moves forward for now, beneath commemorative banners and enormous portraits of Ayatollah Khamenei, still trying to understand what exactly is ending — and what is taking shape in its place.因此，伊朗暂时在阿亚图拉哈梅内伊的纪念横幅和巨大画像下继续前行，同时仍在努力弄清楚究竟什么正在终结——以及什么正在取而代之。周六在大莫萨拉。摄影：Emile DuckeAbdi Latif Dahir是时报中东记者，报道黎巴嫩和叙利亚新闻，常驻贝鲁特。翻译：晋其角点击查看本文英文版。获取更多RSS：https://feedx.net https://feedx.site