Reviving Kuala Lumpur: can Malaysia modernise without pricing out its past?

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A yellowing receipt, framed behind glass near the entrance of Abdul Razak Gold House, records an address that no longer officially exists: “63 Ampang Street, Kuala Lumpur (Malaya)”.The shop’s modern glass frontage, polished counters and gleaming bullion cases give little away about its history. But step inside and that simple receipt serves as a small window onto pre-independence Malaysia.For six decades, this family business has reinvented itself in step with the city around it. What began as...