DAMIEN CAVE2026年8月10日8月，一辆警车停在越南胡志明市热门夜生活胜地范五老街。 He looked like one of the many digital nomads appearing in Vietnam these days as he plopped his bag on a table near the back of a stylish cafe and ordered a coffee.他那时看起来就像如今在越南出现的众多“数字游民”中的一员，把包扔在一家时尚咖啡馆后方附近的桌子上，点了一杯咖啡。Then he ripped off his shirt and ordered everyone to leave.然后，他扯掉自己的衬衫，并命令所有人离开。Security footage captured the man, Shaymus Lilly, 34, an Australian brand strategist, clearing counters and shattering windows at Gé Cafe in the coastal city of Da Nang. He smashed a stranger’s phone and choked a young Vietnamese man before police officers hauled him away.监控录像显示，34岁的澳大利亚品牌策略师沙伊穆斯·利利在沿海城市岘港的Gé Cafe咖啡馆大闹，把柜台上的东西扔到地上，砸碎窗户。在警察把他拖走之前，他砸了一名陌生人的手机，并勒住了一名年轻越南男子的脖子。Witnesses wondered if he was mentally ill and followed him to the station. The only person who could translate was the man Mr. Lilly had attacked. Worried about mistreatment, said Nguyen Hang, 31, the cafe’s manager, he volunteered to interpret for his assailant.目击者怀疑他患有精神疾病，并跟着他去了警局。现场唯一能翻译的人是被利利袭击的那名男子。咖啡馆经理、31岁的阮姮（Nguyen Hang，音）表示，由于担心对方受到不公待遇，他自愿为袭击他的凶手担任翻译。It was a striking illustration of the paradox of today’s Vietnam, which has eagerly welcomed foreigners with promises of natural beauty, fun, friendliness and affordability — but remains a Communist state that prioritizes social order and control. When things go wrong for visitors, open-minded warmth often gives way to a legal system built for a colder, less global era.这鲜明地展现了当今越南的悖论：一方面，它以自然美景、乐趣、友好和亲民的价格热情欢迎外国人；另一方面，它依然是一个将社会秩序与控制放在首位的国家。当游客惹出麻烦时，开放包容的热情往往会让位于一个为更冷酷的、没那么全球化的时代所构建的法律体系。A record 22.8 million international visitors came to Vietnam in 2025, and this year the country is on track to receive around 15 percent more. Though most are well-behaved, foreigners accused of offenses from gun violence, drunken driving and drugs to illegal businesses have been packed into detention centers, fueling a fierce debate over what kind of country Vietnam really is — and wants to be — as it tries to supercharge its economy with international integration.2025年，来到越南的国际游客达到了创纪录的2280万人次，今年有望实现约15%的进一步增长。尽管大多数人遵纪守法，但被指控犯有从枪支暴力、酒后驾驶、毒品到非法经营等罪行的外国人被关进拘留所，这引发了一场激烈辩论：在试图通过国际一体化推动经济高速发展的过程中，越南究竟是一个怎样的国家——以及想成为怎样的国家。Vietnamese officials are facing intense diplomatic pressure to enforce international norms, and upgrade a criminal justice system that is ill-equipped for the country’s rising popularity.越南官员面临着巨大的外交压力，要求他们执行国际规范，改进刑事司法系统——随着越南越来越受欢迎，这个系统难以应对。Official translators are scarce. Gaining access to lawyers or consular officers can take weeks or months. Penalties for even minor infractions — such as overstaying visas, bar scuffles or using small amounts of marijuana — can be severe, including hefty fines and jail time, according to interviews with former detainees, relatives of people recently arrested, lawyers and diplomats from nearly a dozen countries.官方翻译人员十分匮乏。联系律师或领事官员可能需要数周甚至数月。根据对曾被拘留或最近被捕的人员的亲属、来自近十个国家的律师和外交官的采访，即使是对轻微违法行为——例如签证逾期滞留、酒吧打架或使用少量大麻——的处罚可能也会十分严厉，包括高额罚款和监禁。重新开业迎客的岘港Gé Cafe。6月，在岘港骑摩托车的外国游客。在利利发狂事件的前几周，另一个海滩小镇的警方逮捕了一名俄罗斯男子，他在酒后驾驶摩托车撞死了一名70岁的越南女子。“It’s a whole different world, a different paradigm,” said a person close to a foreigner detained in Vietnam, who, like others interviewed for this story, insisted on anonymity to avoid antagonizing Vietnamese authorities. “Over there, you’re presumed guilty.”“这是一个完全不同的世界，一种不同的范式，”一位与在越南被拘留的外国人关系密切的人士说，与本故事采访的其他受访者一样，他坚持匿名以避免激怒越南当局。“在那个地方，你会被推定为有罪。”Vietnam’s Ministry of Public Security acknowledged in a recent public statement that “foreign nationals’ exploitation of relaxed visa policies to enter and reside in Vietnam and engage in unlawful activities has become increasingly complex.”越南公安部在最近的一份公开声明中表示，“外国公民利用宽松的签证政策进入并在越南定居、从事违法活动的现象正变得日益复杂。”A legislative proposal presented this year to local lawmakers in Hanoi, the capital, reported that the city’s detention facility where foreigners are held was under enormous strain, and called for more funding, a rare admission of systemic struggle.今年向首都河内的地方立法者提交的一份立法建议报告称，河内关押外国人的拘留设施正面临巨大压力，并呼吁提供更多资金，这是对系统性困境的一次罕见承认。Foreign diplomats raised the issue with the highest levels of Vietnam’s government earlier this year, according to five international officials with knowledge of the meeting. Ambassadors’ frustrations have grown as more of their citizens have languished in crowded cells, sometimes for months, lacking regular contact with relatives, consular officials or lawyers.据五名知情国际官员透露，外国外交官今年早些时候与越南政府最高层讨论了这个问题。随着越来越多的本国公民被关押在拥挤的牢房里，有时长达数月，缺乏与亲属、领事官员或律师的定期联系，大使们的不满在加剧。8月，一名警察在胡志明市市政厅及胡志明雕像前的广场上巡逻。乘坐三轮车的外国人。Mr. Lilly’s case has been public enough that Australian officials in Vietnam were notified, and they confirmed they are trying to help. But his fate remains uncertain. Da Nang police announced on June 9 that he would be detained for at least three months while the authorities investigate public disorder charges against him, which could lead to several years in prison.利利的案件引起了足够多的公众关注，澳大利亚驻越南官员已经知悉此事，并证实正在努力提供帮助。但他的命运依然悬而未决。岘港警方于6月9日宣布，他将被拘留至少三个月，期间当局将调查针对他的扰乱公共秩序指控，这可能会导致长达数年的监禁。His family in Australia could not be reached for comment. A relative there told a local news outlet that he had bipolar disorder and appeared to be experiencing an episode when he damaged the cafe. At the police station, Ms. Hang recalled, Mr. Lilly said that he had been depressed and not taken his medication.本报无法联系到他在澳大利亚的家人置评。一位亲属告诉当地新闻媒体，他患有双相情感障碍，在破坏咖啡馆时似乎正处于发作期。阮姮回忆道，在警局时，利利说他一直很抑郁且没有吃药。At some point that night, he posted on Facebook: “I need help.”在那天晚上的某个时刻，他在Facebook上发帖：“我需要帮助。”Not Thailand 2.0不是泰国2.0Vietnam has made clear with state-run media heavily covering foreigners’ crimes that it does not want to be another Thailand — where visitors have long flocked for cheap long-term stays, seeking not just the beaches and food but also red light districts and legal marijuana.随着官方媒体对外国人犯罪的大量报道，越南明确表示不想成为另一个泰国。长期以来，游客大量涌入泰国寻求廉价的长期逗留，不仅为了沙滩和美食，还为了红灯区和合法大麻。Part of Vietnam’s challenge is that Thailand also wants to shed that image. The Thai government announced in May that it was cutting most tourist visas to 30 days from 60.越南面临的部分挑战在于泰国也希望摆脱这一形象。泰国政府在5月宣布，将把大多数旅游签证从60天缩短至30天。6月，外国游客聚集在岘港的一个海滩俱乐部。岘港的一处海滩，一名新西兰游客拍下自己荡秋千的样子。Steven Foukal, 28, a digital wellness entrepreneur from Chicago who I met outside the Lighthouse Cafe in Da Nang, where foreigners with laptops occupied nearly every seat, told me he was one of many who recently left Thailand for Vietnam.我在岘港Lighthouse Cafe外遇到了28岁的史蒂芬·福卡尔，他是一名来自芝加哥的数字健康创业者。当时咖啡馆几乎完全被使用笔记本电脑的外国人占据。他告诉我，他是最近离开泰国来到越南的许多人之一。“More and more people want an escape,” he said.“越来越多的人想要一个避世的地方，”他说。Crackdowns on scam centers in neighboring Cambodia, along with Vietnam’s looser visa rules for several countries, including Russia, may also be drawing in nomads and ne’er-do-wells.邻国柬埔寨对诈骗中心的打击、越南对包括俄罗斯在内的多个国家更宽松的签证规则也可能吸引了游民和不良分子。A few weeks before Mr. Lilly’s rampage on the night of May 29, the police in another beach town arrested a Russian man who hit and killed a 70-year-old Vietnamese woman with his motorbike while driving drunk. In June, 83 Chinese nationals were detained after taking over a Ho Chi Minh City hotel for what the police described as “transnational fraud.”在利利于5月29日晚上发狂的前几周，另一个海滩小镇的警方逮捕了一名俄罗斯男子，他在酒后驾驶摩托车时撞死了一名70岁的越南女子。6月，83名中国公民因在胡志明市的一家酒店从事警方所称的“跨国诈骗”而被拘留。Many Vietnamese are not jumping straight to cynicism. Near Da Nang’s My Khe beach on a recent night, Ho Sy Hoang, 76, and his wife, Nguyen Thi Tuyet, 72, sat in front of the building where they live, down the block from a bar full of foreigners pounding shots and playing pool.许多越南人并没有直接转向抵触情绪。最近的一个晚上，在岘港美溪沙滩附近，76岁的黄胡士（Ho Sy Hoang，音）和72岁的妻子阮氏雪（Nguyen Thi Tuyet，音）坐在他们家门前，不远处有一家酒吧，里面都是在痛饮和打台球的外国人。It was quiet until four years ago, the couple said, when the city rezoned the area for tourist nightlife. On the plus side, Mr. Hoang said, his property value has risen. The biggest negative: all-night partying.这对夫妇说，直到四年前这里都很安静，当时市政府将该区域重新规划为游客夜生活区。从好的方面来看，黄先生说，他的房产价值上升了。最大的负面影响是：通宵达旦的派对。76岁的黄胡士在岘港一个深受外国游客喜爱的街区经营一家商店。随着岘港越来越受外国游客欢迎，这座城市正迎来一波建设热潮。“In the morning when I open my door, so many times, I see people drunk, aimless or asleep on the street,” he said.“好几次早晨我推开门，看到有人喝醉了，漫无目的地游荡或者睡在街上，”他说。He and his wife insisted nonetheless that choosing fear over friendliness was not very Vietnamese.尽管如此，他和妻子坚持认为，选择恐惧而不是友好并不是很符合越南人的性格。“They’re just part of the neighborhood,” Mr. Hoang said, pointing to foreigners nearby. “It’s good because before Vietnam was at war and closed to the world. Now we welcome everyone.”“他们只是社区的一部分，”黄先生指着附近的外国人说。“这很好，因为以前越南在打仗并且对世界封闭。现在我们欢迎所有人。”Crime and Punishment罪与罚The police in Da Nang have chosen a more confrontational response, inspecting visas at hotels and showing up at foreigners’ apartments at 3 a.m. to make them take drug tests.岘港警方的反应则更具对抗性：在酒店检查签证；在凌晨3点出现在外国人的公寓里，让他们接受毒品检测。Nationally, the tension between hospitality and suspicion has deep roots. Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam’s revolutionary leader, often accused French colonial rulers of spreading drugs and gambling to keep the Vietnamese people from standing on their own.在这个国家，好客与怀疑之间向来有一种张力。越南革命领导人胡志明经常指责法国殖民统治者散布毒品和赌博，以阻止越南人民自立自强。After the Vietnam War ended in 1975, the country codified a lot of that thinking in law. Drug trafficking, even for small amounts, carries the death penalty. Anyone caught “organizing the use of drugs” — a broad charge that can include making plans to share a joint — faces up to 20 years in prison.1975年越南战争结束后，该国将这一思维固化在了法律条文中。贩毒——即使是极小数量，也可判处死刑。任何被抓到“组织吸毒”的人都将面临长达20年的监禁，这是一个宽泛的罪名，可以包括计划分享大麻烟卷。Legal scholars say justice, for citizens and visitors alike, remains shaped by Communist Party politics and a bias toward guilt.法律学者表示，无论是对本国公民还是游客而言，正义依然受到共产党政治和有罪推定的影响。The party sets targets — officials recently declared that Ho Chi Minh City, the country’s largest, will be drug-free by 2030 — and members of the police compete for promotions with prosecutions. Officers send judges “dossiers” about alleged offenders, including a description of the crime and the recommended sentence, and “the assumption is that it’s correct,” said John Gillespie, an expert in Vietnamese law at Monash University in Australia.共产党设定了目标——官方最近宣布，该国最大城市胡志明市将在2030年前实现无毒品——办案起诉的数量成为警员们竞逐晋升机会的筹码。澳大利亚莫纳什大学的越南法律专家约翰·吉勒斯皮表示，警官们会向法官提交关于涉嫌违法者的“案卷”，其中包括对犯罪的描述和量刑建议，“并且假设这些案卷是正确的”。Human rights groups have long criticized the Vietnamese authorities for staging show trials and depriving their own citizens of due process. International laws designed to protect foreign detainees — requiring regular consular access and swift notification to their governments — are routinely violated in Vietnam, according to foreign officials from 10 countries. Lawyers and relatives also have little to no access to defendants, especially during pretrial detention, which can last for more than a year.人权组织长期以来一直批评越南当局举行示众审判并剥夺本国公民的正当程序。据来自10个国家的外国官员称，旨在保护外国被拘留者的国际法（要求定期的领事接触并迅速通知其政府）在越南经常被违法。律师和亲属也几乎无法或很难接触被告，尤其是在可能持续一年以上的审前拘留期间。“The old Soviet system has remained somewhat intact,” Mr. Gillespie said.“旧的苏联体系在很大程度上保持完好，”吉勒斯皮说。Vietnam’s Ministry of Public Security and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs did not respond to written requests for interviews about the country’s approach.越南公安部和外交部没有回应关于应对方法的书面采访请求。In July, the security ministry posted a video of its chief spokesman, Maj. Gen. Nguyen Quoc Toan, emphasizing its commitment to simplifying procedures so foreigners “who come to Vietnam for legitimate purposes” experience “a welcoming, efficient and well-governed country.”7月，公安部发布了其首席发言人阮国全（Nguyen Quoc Toan，音）少将的视频，强调致力于简化程序，以便“出于合法目的来到越南”的外国人能体验到一个“热情、高效和管理良好的国家”。6月，游客在岘港的一家酒吧消磨时光。黄先生说：“好几次早晨我推开门，看到有人喝醉了，漫无目的地游荡或者睡在街上。”岘港市中心的市场对外国游客有巨大的吸引力。公安部表示将致力于简化行政程序，以便外国人能体验到一个“热情、高效和管理良好的国家”。There are hints that some officials think the detention system needs updating. The document presented to Hanoi’s lawmaking body noted that the average meal allowance of about $1 a day for detainees, in place since 2000, “is no longer suitable given inflation and the physical needs of foreign nationals.”有迹象表明，一些官员认为需要改进拘留系统。提交给河内立法机构的文件指出，自2000年开始实施的被拘留者每天约1美元的平均伙食津贴，“考虑到通货膨胀和外国人的身体需求，已不再合适。”The man that Mr. Lilly had put in a chokehold went to the police station because of concerns for the Australian’s welfare, according to Ms. Hang, the cafe manager.据咖啡馆经理阮姮称，被利利锁喉的男子去警局是出于担心这名澳大利亚人会受到不公对待。“We were all just trying to get out of it safely — and the customer didn’t want the guy to be harmed,” she said.“我们当时只是想安全地摆脱困境——而且顾客并不希望那个人受到伤害，”她说。Gé Cafe reopened a few days later, after paying for repairs. At the entrance when I visited in June, near new windows, customers were greeted with a poster displaying the flags of Australia and Vietnam side by side.Gé Cafe自己出钱进行维修，在几天后重新开业。我6月去的时候，在靠近新窗户的门口可以看到一张将澳大利亚和越南国旗并排展示的海报。But in early August, Ms. Hang said she and the cafe’s owner were disappointed because they still had not heard from Mr. Lilly’s family. Instead of a lengthy prison sentence, they would like an apology and compensation.但在8月初，阮女士表示，她和咖啡馆的老板很失望，因为他们仍然没有收到利利家人的消息。他们希望得到道歉和赔偿，而不是让对方被判处漫长的监禁。摄影：Linh PhamTung Ngo对本文有研究贡献。Damien Cave领导时报在越南胡志明市的新分社，报道亚洲及全球世界范围内的权力转移。翻译：纽约时报中文网点击查看本文英文版。