MUKTITA SUHARTONO, YAN ZHUANG, MAX KIM, SUHASINI RAJ2026年7月29日首尔南大门市场的一部分被称为刀削面街，以手工切制的刀削面闻名。 Chang W. Lee/The New York TimesSamosas in India. Noodles in South Korea. Street food of all kinds in Indonesia.印度的咖喱角。韩国的刀削面。印度尼西亚的各种街头小吃。Across Asia, people are discovering that staple dishes that were once reliably cheap are no longer so affordable, as the shock waves of the Iran war spread around the world.亚洲各地的人们发现，那些曾经价格亲民的日常主食如今已不再那么便宜。伊朗战争带来的冲击波正在全球蔓延。Asian countries, which rely heavily on energy imports from the Middle East, have been deeply affected by the economic fallout of the conflict, which has reignited after the collapse of a preliminary U.S.-Iran cease-fire.亚洲各国严重依赖来自中东的能源进口，随着美伊初步停火协议破裂、冲突重燃，这场战争造成的经济冲击已对亚洲各国产生深远影响。Since the fighting began in February, tourism across Asia has plummeted, inflation has surged and prices of ingredients are soaring. Customers and food sellers alike are feeling the pinch.自今年2月战事爆发以来，亚洲旅游业全面下滑，通货膨胀飙升，食材价格飞涨。无论是消费者还是餐饮摊贩，都切身感受到了经济压力。“We are all in the same boat, hoping it won’t sink,” said Supatra Ruamthot, a street food seller in Bangkok.“我们都在同一条船上，只希望它不要沉。”曼谷街头小吃摊主素帕特拉·鲁阿姆托说。South Korea韩国韩国的消费者机构在3月报告称，刀削面的平均价格已突破1万韩元（约6.7美元）。For years, Kim Moon-jung sold bowls of kalguksu — hand-cut noodles in savory broth — out of her restaurant in southern Seoul for 9,000 won (about $6). But with the cost of ingredients steadily rising, she plans to increase the price to at least 10,000 won in the next few months.多年来，金文贞（音）在首尔南部经营一家餐馆，以9000韩元（约合6美元）一碗的价格出售刀削面（配鲜美高汤的手切面条）。但随着原料成本持续上涨，她计划在未来几个月内将价格提高到至少1万韩元。A flurry of local news media reports followed the announcement in March by South Korea’s consumer agency that the average bowl of kalguksu in Seoul had exceeded that price point, an important psychological marker.今年3月，韩国消费者机构宣布，首尔一碗刀削面的平均售价已经突破1万韩元。这一消息引发韩国媒体的密集报道，因为这个价格被视为一个重要的心理关口。Residents of the capital are so eager to find affordable meals, and so sensitive to price increases, that earlier this year they created a crowdsourced map to identify restaurants selling meals for 10,000 won or less.首尔居民迫切寻找平价餐食，且对价格上涨极其敏感，因此今年早些时候他们创建了一个网友共享地图，专门标注餐食价格在1万韩元或以下的餐厅。“There’s not a single ingredient that hasn’t become more expensive,” said Ms. Kim, 59, who runs her store with her daughter. She listed materials like flour, clams and vegetables.“每一种食材都在涨价。”59岁的金文贞说道，她和女儿一起经营这家店。她列举了面粉、蛤蜊和蔬菜等原料。She said she was not worried that the price hike would deter customers. “They also see that everything’s getting more expensive,” she said. “So how can they blame us?”她表示，并不担心涨价会吓跑顾客。“他们也看得到，什么东西都在涨价。”她说，“所以他们怎么能怪我们呢？”India印度德里老城区一家店铺里，正在制作的咖喱角。Behind the counter of Yadav Milk Dairy in Lucknow, a city about 250 miles southeast of New Delhi that is known for its street food, owner Shubham Yadav lamented that he was “barely profiting” from selling samosas, the potato-filled savory pastries that are one of India’s most famous culinary exports.在新德里东南方向约400公里、以街头美食闻名的勒克瑙，亚达夫牛奶杂货店的店主舒巴姆·亚达夫站在柜台后感叹，靠卖咖喱角“几乎赚不到什么钱了”。咖喱角是一种包着土豆馅的美味酥皮点心，也是印度最著名的美食之一。Mr. Yadav, 29, said the price of the gas cylinders he uses had doubled to 3,600 rupees, or about $38. India imports about 60 percent of its liquefied petroleum gas, much of that via the Strait of Hormuz. The wartime disruption of the waterway has threatened the supply of the fuel that powers the country’s gas stoves.29岁的亚达夫说，他使用的煤气罐价格已经翻了一番，达到3600卢比（约合38美元）。印度约60%的液化石油气依赖进口，其中大部分经由霍尔木兹海峡运输。战争导致该海峡运输受阻，也威胁到了印度燃气灶的燃料供应。Mr. Yadav said he could not double his prices to match the surging cost of gas, so he had increased the price of each samosa by about 1 cent. But this meant his profits were increasingly thin, he said, and he worried that he might need to raise prices further in the coming months.亚达夫说，他无法像燃气价格那样把咖喱角的售价翻倍，因此每个咖喱角只涨了约1美分。但这样一来，利润越来越薄，他担心未来几个月可能需要进一步提价。He said he hoped that his customers enjoyed his samosas enough to keep buying. “But at what price, is the question?” he asked.他说，他希望顾客足够喜欢他的咖喱角，愿意继续购买。“但问题在于，他们究竟能接受多高的价格？”他问道。Thailand泰国曼谷一家街头美食市场里出售的青木瓜沙拉。Before the war began, Ms. Ruamthot, who has dished out som tum, or green papaya salad, for 20 years, would start receiving orders in person and on delivery apps before she had even finished setting up her stall in the morning. At lunchtime, she would serve a flood of customers, many of them office workers, who would wait up to 30 minutes.鲁阿姆托已经卖了20年青木瓜沙拉，战争爆发前，每天早上摊位还没摆好，她就已经陆续收到现场顾客和外卖平台的订单。午餐高峰时，总有大批顾客排队等候，其中许多是上班族，他们最长要等30分钟。These days, she does the waiting.如今，轮到她等待了。“It’s so bad now. Business is very slow,” said Ms. Ruamthot, 62.“现在太差了，生意非常冷清，”62岁的鲁阿姆托说。Even though her costs have risen by about 30 percent, she has not increased her prices out of fear that doing so would drive more customers away.尽管成本上涨了约30%，但她不敢涨价，担心这样会失去更多顾客。“Even with the current price, we are losing customers,” she said. “People really live frugally because everything has increased in price.”“即使维持现在的价格，我们还是不断流失顾客，”她说，“大家真的过得很节省，因为所有东西都涨价了。”Her profits had fallen by more than half, to about 1,000 baht a day (around $30), leaving her unsure how long she could sustain her business. When she speaks with other food vendors, she learns that her situation isn’t unique.她每天的利润已经减少了一半以上，只剩约1000泰铢（约30美元），她不确定自己的生意还能撑多久。和其他餐饮摊贩聊天时，她发现大家的情况都差不多。“Everybody is experiencing the same thing,” she said.“所有人都一样，”她说。Indonesia印度尼西亚雅加达一处传统市场里，正在备餐的摊贩。“If I didn’t increase the price I couldn’t survive,” said Ridah, 48, who sells gado-gado, a dish of boiled vegetables dressed with peanut sauce, in Jakarta.“如果我不涨价，就活不下去了。”48岁的丽达说。她在雅加达卖加多加多，这是一道淋着沙嗲酱的水煮蔬菜沙拉。Standing next to her food cart, she rattled off ingredients that had increased in cost, including peanuts and plastic bags. When she goes to the market, she said, “I don’t even know how much I’ll have to pay for my shopping for the day.”站在自己的餐车旁，她一口气列举了涨价的食材，包括花生和塑料袋。她说，去市场采购时，“我都不知道当天到底要花多少钱。”Ms. Ridah — who, like many Indonesians, uses only one name — said her profits had more than halved since the war began, and business was even worse than during the coronavirus pandemic. Then, she still had customers.丽达（和许多印尼人一样，她没有姓）说，自战争爆发以来，她的利润减少了一半以上，生意甚至比新冠疫情期间还要糟糕。至少那时还有顾客。“Now, no one is buying,” she said.“她说，“现在，根本没人买。”While she knew her customers were also struggling, she felt that she had no choice but to increase the price of her dish by 1,000 rupiah (about five cents) to 18,000 rupiah (about $1).虽然她知道顾客的日子也不好过，但她觉得自己别无选择，只能把每份加多加多的售价提高1000印尼盾（约合5美分），涨到1.8万印尼盾（约1美元）。“This is the only thing I can do and how I earned my living,” said Ms. Ridah, who has run her food cart for nearly 30 years. “We just have to survive this.”“这是我唯一会做的事情，也是我赖以谋生的工作。”经营这辆餐车近30年的丽达说，“我们只能设法挺过去。”Muktita Suhartono报道泰国和印度尼西亚新闻，常驻曼谷。Yan Zhuang是时报驻首尔记者，报道突发新闻。Suhasini Raj是时报驻新德里记者，自2014年起报道印度新闻。翻译：杜然点击查看本文英文版。