JIAWEI WANG, CHOE SANG-HUN2025年8月26日North Korea is taking inspiration from the West. In Pyongyang, elites drink coffee at a fake Starbucks and pay by mobile phone. About 100 miles away on the east coast, a seaside resort that’s a pet project of the country’s leader, Kim Jong-un, is stocked with foreign beers and decked out with water slides, ready to receive tourists.朝鲜正从西方汲取灵感。在平壤，精英人士在一家仿冒的星巴克喝咖啡，用手机支付。在距离平壤大约160公里外的东海岸，一个由朝鲜领导人金正恩主推的海滨度假胜地备有外国啤酒，还设有水上滑梯，随时准备迎接游客。To blunt the impact of international sanctions and bring in cash, North Korea is creating the look of prosperity by imitating its capitalist enemies.为了减轻国际制裁的影响并赚取现金，朝鲜通过模仿其资本主义对手来营造繁荣的景象。The New York Times obtained footage from three recent visitors to the country: a Russian tourist, a Swedish marathon runner and a Chinese student. While the foreigners had North Korean chaperones and were not allowed to film construction sites and military personnel, they provided a rare glimpse into how Mr. Kim’s modernization plans are nurturing a new culture of consumerism in one of the world’s most isolated and authoritarian countries. The goods they encountered are out of reach for most North Koreans, who earn, on average, a little over $1,000 a year, according to South Korea.《纽约时报》从最近的三位访朝者那里获得了视频素材：一位俄罗斯游客、一位瑞典马拉松选手和一位中国学生。虽然这些外国人有朝鲜陪同人员，且不被允许拍摄建筑工地和军事人员，但他们提供了一个难得的视角，让人们看到金正恩的现代化计划如何在这个世界上最孤立、最威权主义的国家之一孕育出一种新的消费文化。这些游客所见到的商品对大多数朝鲜人来说是遥不可及的，据韩国称，朝鲜人的平均年收入略高于1000美元。‘North Korean IKEA’“朝鲜宜家”A student from China who is taking language classes in Pyongyang said he initially thought the country would be backward.一位在平壤学习语言的中国学生说，他最初以为这个国家会很落后。“I was worried about not having enough food or warm clothes,” he said. “But when I arrived, I found it to be quite luxurious.”“我担心吃不饱穿不暖，”他说。“但我到达时，发现相当奢华。”The student, whose name is being withheld out of fear of reprisals from officials, said one of the city’s most upscale spots is a multistory shopping mall, Rangrang Patriotic Geumganggwan, which sells a range of furniture, kitchenware and food products. He said he and his fellow Chinese students called it “North Korean IKEA” because the layout and products looked like they had been directly lifted from the Swedish furniture company.由于担心遭到官员报复，这位学生没有透露姓名。他说，这座城市最高档的地方之一是一座多层购物中心——乐浪爱国金刚馆，里面出售各种家具、厨具和食品。他说，他和中国同学说它是“朝鲜宜家”，因为其布局和产品看起来就像是直接从那家瑞典家具公司照搬过来的。While it is unclear if the products are imitations or real ones that are smuggled in, some items like lamps and lampshades appear to have the same name and packaging as those sold at IKEA stores.目前尚不清楚这些产品是仿制品还是走私进来的真品，但灯具和灯罩等一些物品似乎与宜家出售的产品有相同的名称和包装。 The mall also has a coffee shop that is a copy of Starbucks’ premium brand, Starbucks Reserve, except that North Korea calls the cafe “Mirai Reserve.” The star in the Starbucks Reserve logo is replaced with a stylized version of the letter M.该购物中心还有一家咖啡店，模仿了星巴克高端品牌“星巴克臻选”，只不过朝鲜称这家咖啡店为“未来臻选”。星巴克臻选标志中的星星被一个风格化的字母“M”所取代。The student said he usually paid in U.S. dollars and personally found prices in Pyongyang expensive, recalling the time he paid about $25 for three coffees at Mirai Reserve.这位学生说，他通常用美元支付，他个人觉得平壤的物价很贵，他回忆，在“未来臻选”买三杯咖啡花了大约25美元。 U.N. sanctions ban foreign brands from selling luxury goods to North Korea or opening joint business ventures there. Starbucks said it had no store in North Korea.联合国制裁禁止外国品牌向朝鲜出售奢侈品或在当地开设合资企业。星巴克表示该公司在朝鲜没有门店。Jakob Holmström, an IKEA spokesman, said the same was true of his company.宜家发言人雅各布·霍尔姆斯特伦表示，宜家的情况也是如此。“We have no authorized IKEA sales channels in North Korea,” he said. “We are continuously monitoring for infringements of our intellectual property rights and, where appropriate, take action.”“宜家在朝鲜没有授权销售渠道。我们一直在监控知识产权侵权情况，并在适当的时候采取行动，”他说。Mr. Kim condones and even encourages consumerism in Pyongyang because it is home to the elites, many of whom have traveled abroad as diplomats and traders or as workers sent to earn cash for the regime. They have been exposed to Western goods and have money and a taste for them, according to analysts and officials in South Korea. Mr. Kim seeks to draw some of the dollars these elites have privately amassed into state coffers, they said.金正恩容忍甚至鼓励平壤的消费主义，因为平壤是精英们的聚集地，他们中的许多人曾作为外交官、商人或为政权赚取外汇的工人出国旅行。韩国的分析人士和官员称，这些人接触过西方商品，并且有购买这些商品的金钱和兴趣。他们说，金正恩试图将这些精英们私下积累的一些美元转入国库。Most payments in the capital seem to be made with mobile phones, said Johan Nylander, a 53-year-old Swedish runner from Hong Kong who participated in the Pyongyang marathon in April. Even small street vendors selling bottles of water and juice preferred digital payments via QR code over cash, he said.今年4月参加平壤马拉松比赛的53岁瑞典籍香港选手约翰·尼兰德说，在平壤，大多数支付似乎都是用手机完成的。他说，即使是卖瓶装水和果汁的小商贩也更喜欢通过二维码进行数字支付，而不是收取现金。“Mobile phones are a big part of daily life,” Mr. Nylander said. “They have a lot of the apps that you can find in the rest of the world: video, texting, North Korean-style Uber and shopping.”“手机是日常生活的重要组成部分，”尼兰德说。“他们有很多在世界其他地方也能找到的应用程序：视频、短信、朝鲜版的优步和购物应用。”North Korea’s ‘Waikiki’朝鲜夏威夷威基基This summer, Mr. Kim opened his most ambitious resort project, the Wonsan Kalma beach complex. Called “North Korea’s Waikiki” by South Korean media, it features a line of new hotels along a 2.5-mile-long scenic sandy beach.今年夏天，金正恩开设了他最雄心勃勃的度假项目——元山葛麻海岸综合旅游区。韩国媒体称其为“朝鲜威基基”，沿着一条风景优美、约四公里长的海滩，坐落着一排新酒店。At the opening ceremony, North Korean state media footage showed Mr. Kim walking around a colorful water park while watching people zip down water slides.朝鲜国家媒体的画面显示，在开幕式上，金正恩在一个色彩缤纷的水上公园四处走动，看着人们从水上滑梯滑下来。Last month, North Korea allowed the first foreigners into the resort, around a dozen tourists from Russia. Daria Zubkova, a 35-year-old veterinarian from St. Petersburg, Russia, said North Korea had long been a country she wanted to visit, so she paid about $1,400 for the weeklong trip.上个月，朝鲜首次允许外国游客进入该度假村，这些游客大约有十几名，来自俄罗斯。来自俄罗斯圣彼得堡的35岁兽医达里娅·祖布科娃说，朝鲜一直是她想去看看的国家，所以她花了大约1400美元参加了为期一周的旅行。Ms. Zubkova said everything appeared brand new, from the train that brought the group to the resort, to her hotel room and the beach amenities. “It looks like a picture that was painted for you,” she said.祖布科娃说，一切看起来都是崭新的，从载着他们前往度假村的火车，到她的酒店房间和海滩设施。“看起来就像一幅专门为你画的画，”她说。Tourism is one sector of the economy that has not been sanctioned by the United Nations. Under Mr. Kim, “North Korea has considered tourism a multipurpose industry that could bring in foreign currency, create jobs, stimulate domestic consumption and improve the national image,” said Choi Eun-ju, an analyst at the Sejong Institute in Seoul.旅游业是未被联合国制裁的经济领域之一。首尔世宗研究所的分析师崔恩珠（音）说，在金正恩的领导下，“朝鲜将旅游业视为一种多功能产业，它可以带来外汇、创造就业机会、刺激国内消费并改善国家形象。”Ms. Zubkova said that she had not felt like she was being monitored because she was allowed to roam the resort freely, but that wherever she went there was always resort staff nearby, from lifeguards to waitresses and doctors. “I felt like a hero in a movie because everyone is watching you and whatever you ask is immediately fulfilled,” she said.祖布科娃说，她没有感觉到自己被监视，因为她可以自由地在度假村内活动，但无论她走到哪里，附近总是有度假村的工作人员，从救生员到服务员和医生。“我感觉自己像电影里的主角，因为每个人都在看着你，你提出的任何要求都会立即得到满足，”她说。But “promoting tourism presents North Korea with a dilemma in seeking a balance between openness and control,” said Hwang Joo Hee and Na Yongwoo, analysts at the Seoul-based Korea Institute for National Unification, in a report published in March.但首尔的韩国统一研究院的分析师黄周熙（音）和罗荣宇（音）在3月份发布的一份报告中说，“促进旅游业给朝鲜带来了一个难题，即如何在开放和控制之间寻求平衡。”Since 2020, North Korea has enacted a series of draconian laws aimed at cracking down on outside cultural influence. Tourism runs the risk of weakening Mr. Kim’s totalitarian control on information, a key to maintaining his unquestioned authority. Information about his country and news from the outside world will inevitably flow in and out of North Korea through foreign visitors.自2020年以来，朝鲜颁布了一系列严厉的法律，旨在打击外部文化影响。旅游业有可能削弱金正恩对信息的极权控制，而这是维持他无可置疑的权威的关键。关于朝鲜的信息和来自外界的新闻将不可避免地通过外国游客流入和流出朝鲜。In recent months, foreign tourists who have visited North Korea reported asking the country’s tour guides about the deployment of North Korean troops to Russia’s war against Ukraine — something the government had not made public until April. North Korea briefly stopped receiving foreign tourists this year after social media influencers posted videos of their trips to North Korea with unflattering comments.最近几个月，访问过朝鲜的外国游客报告说，他们询问过朝鲜导游有关朝鲜军队参与俄乌战争的情况——这是朝鲜政府直到4月才公开的事情。今年早些时候，朝鲜曾短暂停收外国游客，原因是有网红发布了他们访问朝鲜的视频，并附有贬损的评论。The biggest potential source of tourist cash for North Korea is China. In 2019, the year before North Korea shut its borders to keep the pandemic out, it attracted a record 300,000 foreign tourists, most of them from China.对朝鲜来说，最大的潜在旅游收入来源是中国。在2019年，也就是朝鲜为抵御疫情关闭边境的前一年，该国吸引了创纪录的30万外国游客，其中大多数来自中国。Milana Mazaeva自格鲁吉亚第比利斯对本文有报道贡献。Jiawei Wang是《纽约时报》视频记者，常驻首尔。Choe Sang-Hun是时报驻首尔首席记者，报道韩国和朝鲜新闻。翻译：纽约时报中文网点击查看本文英文版。获取更多RSS：https://feedx.net https://feedx.site