Giorgio Armani, the king of Italian fashion, passed away at the age of 91 on Thursday (September 4), leaving behind a timeless legacy of minimalist yet powerful fashion. Not one to follow trends, Armani launched his eponymous label to create a unique language of expression that was classic yet contemporary.A proponent of understated aesthetics, he prioritised comfort, as evident in his fluid but well-defined silhouettes and impeccable craftsmanship. Armani displayed a thoughtful artistic vision, defining himself as someone who is “pragmatic and rational but my actions all come from the heart”, in his autobiography Per Amore (2023). He perceived fashion as complementary to the larger lifestyle realm, not isolated from it, and believed that fashion should holistically influence an individual’s life.It was this view that made him a revolutionary force in international fashion, building an empire that is worth $10 billion today. Here is a look at five elements of his design, style and approach that made him the icon he was.1. Break to buildArmani entered the fashion world in the 1970s as somewhat of an iconoclast when he decided to do away with the rigid padding, jacket lining and the stiff silhouette, which were all commonplace in men’s clothing at the time.Thus was born his deconstructed suit — relaxed, lightweight and androgynous. The design has effortlessly stood the test of time and continues to headline the designer’s legacy as someone who did not compromise comfort for aesthetics. Models presenting the Giorgio Armani fashion collection stand in showcases at the end of the showing for Fall-Winter 1985-86 in Milan, March 13, 1985. (AP Photo/Ferdinando Meazza, file)2. Women’s easeIt was Armani’s reinterpretation of power dressing for women later in that decade that truly showcased his progressive outlook. His philosophy was evident in how he anticipated women’s need for ease of dressing and mobility as they increasingly joined the workforce in Western nations. He made the silhouettes fluid, executed with a delicate finesse that exuded both elegance and gravitas. Armani’s power suit was an equaliser.3. A minimalist to perfectionStory continues below this adFor Armani, less was always just the right amount. He was often considered a postmodernist designer for his Bauhaus-like sensibility, that is, the German art school which sought to integrate artistic creativity with the rules of design.He was a minimalist in more ways than one. Each of his designs epitomised quiet luxury in the way he carefully assembled clean lines, a neutral palette and sleek design. Rejecting the prevalent flamboyance of the ‘70s marked by loud colours and sheen, he conceived looks that were soft and easy on the eyes.4. Hollywood as a runwayArmani’s arrival on the global fashion scene also gave Hollywood a visual upgrade as his power suits started making appearances on the red carpet. He is credited with having created the Hollywood power-player look, seen on gangsters in the Martin Scorsese film Goodfellas (1990), which continues to dominate elite circles to date.Explained | What is haute couture, and why do runways show ‘unwearable’ clothes?But a few particular instances contributed significantly towards solidifying his position as a pioneer. An Armani design was first spotted on the red carpet when Hollywood actress Diane Keaton decided to wear his tailored double-breasted jacket to receive the Oscar for Best Actress for Annie Hall in 1978.Story continues below this adRichard Gere’s sophisticated and refined wardrobe of Armani suits for the 1980 thriller American Gigolo established him as a formidable force in the industry. The film gave Armani his first costume designer credit, following which he created looks for Miami Vice, the ‘80s TV show that ran for four years, The Untouchables (1987), The Dark Knight (2008), Inglourious Basterds (2009) and Elysium (2013), among others.5. A democratic empireArmani had once said, “I’ve always thought fashion is much more than just clothes: it is a way of being.” Putting thought into action, he expanded his empire with two more companies, Emporio Armani (1981) and Armani Exchange (1991), to offer people a more wholesome experience of what he called “Armani World”.With ready-to-wear clothes and an expanded collection and pricing range, he made fashion more accessible and democratic. Through the two companies, the designer took the Armani experience beyond the exclusive realm of haute couture, extending it to accessories — jewellery, scarves, handkerchiefs and belts — streetwear and denims, and even interior decor.