Back in the early aughts, when the tastemakers of America were rediscovering the old-timey culinary crafts of canning, fermentation, and other preindustrial ways of handling food, people also reconnected with what are now called naturally nonstick surfaces.Suddenly, everyone was furiously rummaging through their pantries looking for their grandmother’s hand-me-down cast iron skillets and spreading the gospel of how steaks, hamburgers, and grilled cheese sandwiches formed perfect crusts on their slick, lovingly seasoned surfaces.Everyone is still living in the aftermath of that fuss. But somehow, in the rising tide that brought heritage cast iron brands like Lodge back into folks’ regular cookware rotation, carbon steel has yet to permeate the mainstream. Which is a shame.