Eulogy for the Indian landmark: How we lost our way in a mapped world

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There is a specific kind of digital amnesia that sets in the moment you plug a destination into a smartphone. You stop looking at the horizon and start staring at a blue polyline, trusting a disembodied voice to navigate the chaos of an Indian street.We’ve edited the street out of our vision to make room for that blue line. We’ve traded the landmark, a messy, vibrant, hand-painted soul of the Indian road, for the coordinate. And in doing so, we’ve lost our sense of where we actually are.We often tell ourselves we use Google Maps because we have a bad sense of direction, but the science suggests the opposite might be true. A research paper by Louisa Dahmani and Dr Veronique Bohbot followed drivers over three years and discovered that those who leaned heavily on the ‘blue line’ saw a steeper decline in their ability to build mental maps. By picking the “less cognitively demanding” option (using GPS for navigation), they were essentially letting the mapping centre of their brain (the hippocampus) wither from disuse (my words, not theirs).Also Read | A fading art: As digital campaigns rise, Chennai muralists see work dry up ahead of pollsCalibrating the compassMy internal compass was calibrated in Kannur, Kerala. Back then, navigation was an exercise in visual literacy, not street names. My grandparents’ house didn’t have a searchable map pin, it had a ‘vibe’, a smell in the air, and, more importantly, it had a TMT Steels ad. It was a massive, hand-painted mural on a compound wall just a few metres from my gate. That shade of industrial yellow, weathered by the Malabar monsoons, was my North Star. When I saw a muscular man holding a steel rod, I knew I was home.There is something deeply human about navigating by ‘flavor’ rather than math. When I moved to Chennai, my landmarks shifted, but the logic remained the same. Directions to my place were a technicolor dream: “You see the temple with the blue and pink gopuram? Yeah, that road.” You couldn’t miss it. The gopuram was my lighthouse in a sea of traffic, a landmark that demanded you look up and notice how the evening light caught the neon paint. It forced you to be present.Lost in spreadsheet citiesThen, I moved to Noida, a city seemingly built by people who love spreadsheets.Here, the ‘landmark’ is a casualty of urban planning. Everything is a sector, a block, or a society name. Navigating Noida is a sterile, mathematical experience where one high-rise looks exactly like the next. There are no blue and pink gopurams here; there are only sectors 74, 75, and 76, numbers that feel like they belong in a lottery draw. In Noida, the Google Maps pin is a survival tool. If your phone dies in a Noida sector, you become a ghost in a grid of identical towers.Story continues below this adThis is the kind of disorientation the urban planner Kevin Lynch warned us about. In his book, ‘The Image of the City’, he argued that for a city to be truly liveable, it must be ‘legible’. He goes on to say that a resident should be able to recognize the parts of their neighborhood and organize them into a coherent mental pattern. Lynch identified landmarks as one of the five vital elements of urban survival. He wrote that the “terror of being lost” comes from a lack of orientation, and that a clear mental map is a source of emotional security. When we strip a city of its pink gopurams and weathered murals, we are, as Lynch might put it, creating a landscape that is impossible for the human spirit to truly inhabit. But while modern planners have failed Lynch’s test of ‘legibility’, the digital algorithm has its own blind spots, specifically, the Indian last mile.Fresh Take | Gen Z is nostalgic for a childhood it never hadI live now in a small, tucked-away pocket of Delhi, a breathing piece of the city that isn’t on a main road. Here, the digital map hits a wall. Food delivery agents spin in frantic circles on the order tracking screen, trapped in the gully behind my house while the driver calls me confused.“Madam, location galat dikha raha hai (Ma’am, the location is wrong),” he says.In that moment, directions go back to locating landmarks: “Bhaiya, Gurudwara dikh raha hai? Bas wahi ruk jao. Main bahar aa rahi hoon.” (Can you see the Gurudwara? Just stop there. I’m coming out.) We are forced back into a world where the sacred and the social (the temple, the mosque, and the chai tapri) are the only things that matter when you’re trying to find your way. The Gurudwara becomes my TMT Steels ad. It is the only thing the algorithm can’t abstract away.Story continues below this adThe intimacy of a hand-drawn mapThis digital dependence has made me nostalgic for a version of myself I haven’t seen in twenty years.When I was seven, I invited a friend over for a playdate. This was the pre-smartphone era, a time of landlines and handwritten notes. I remember sitting at my desk, tongue poked out in concentration, drawing a map in the back of my ‘rough’ notebook. It was a masterpiece by a 7-year-old cartographer. I drew the school bus stop, a palm tree, and, importantly, a scary cat that was always around the dustbins on my street.Looking back, that map was probably useless for actual navigation. My friend likely reached my house because her mother knew my mother. But the act of drawing that map was an act of intimacy. To draw a map, you have to truly see your world. You have to know where the pothole is, which wall has the peeling paint, and which shop smells like coffee. In short, a mental archive of your life.Wayfinders or tourists?Today, we follow instructions, wanting to get from Point A to Point B with the least amount of friction, which means we treat everything in between as noise. We don’t notice the milestones anymore, those yellow-and-white stones on roads that tell us how far we’d come and how much further we had to go. We don’t notice painted ads that tell us what the local economy cares about. We just wait for the haptic buzz in our pocket telling us to turn left in 200 metres.We may be gaining efficiency, but I fear we are losing our ‘wayfinding’ soul. When we stop looking for landmarks, we stop belonging to the places we pass through. We become tourists in our own cities, guided by an algorithm that knows the distance to our house, but doesn’t know the color of the gopuram that makes us feel like we’ve finally arrived.Story continues below this adNext time the Blinkit guy calls, I’m giving the satellite a rest. I’ll tell him to look for the Gurudwara instead, because the algorithm may have mapped the world, but it still hasn’t figured out how to find my front door.