Decades before several Hyderabad’s legacy restaurants gained popularity, a quiet Kerala food outlet was taking root in the city in the 1960s. A Malayali struggling for a livelihood started serving Kerala cuisine in Punjagutta.In the heart of the city, Akson in Punjagutta serves not just food, but also tells a story of a journey, resilience, and the comforting taste of home for thousands of Malayalis. For nearly 67 years, it has been a well-known restaurant and a silent witness to the city’s transformation.Akson Restaurant in Punjagutta serves Kerala cuisine and has become a comforting culinary haven for Hyderabad’s growing Malayali community in Hyderabad. | Photo Credit: SIDDHANT THAKURThe nameThe name of the restaurant itself tells the story of a family. ‘A K son’ stands for Aboobakkar, his father, Kochami, his mother, and his sons. Today, their sons continue this legacy with the same hands-on approach. The owner can often be found taking orders himself, his warm interactions with customers adding a personal touch.Origins of AksonBehind every extraordinary story, there will be a person’s sacrifice, a silent struggle, a choice to endure pain. Its origins are as humble as they are historic. The journey began in the 1960s when the founder, Aboobackar, migrated from Kerala, leaving home as a young boy. His son, who now runs the restaurant, recounts his father’s early days of struggle. “He came here and did all kinds of jobs; worked at his uncle’s shop in Ameerpet, made porotta, tea, and many more. He struggled a lot to establish himself,” Mohammed Sageesh, one of the current owners, recalls.The restaurant’s first took shape as a simple tea stall on a Thattukada (a makeshift platform). “When this building, owned by one of the families of Nizam of Hyderabad, was constructed, my father managed to secure two shutters,” pointing to their old building that is opposite to their current space. He continues, ”We have an official trade licence dating back to the 1970s”.Akson Restaurant in Punjagutta serves Kerala cuisine and has become a comforting culinary haven for Hyderabad’s growing Malayali community in Hyderabad. | Photo Credit: SIDDHANT THAKURAkson witnessed Hyderabad’s growth“This road used to be just a single narrow lane,” Mr. Sageesh, who is over 50 years old narrates, recollecting a picture of a bygone era. “In my early days, I remember bullock carts, horse carriages, and cycle rickshaws. Once in an hour, maybe one Ambassador car would pass by this way. You are looking at the same place, which has changed.The core philosophy remains simple and profound, says Mr. Sageesh, “We eat the same food we serve. We know what ingredients to buy. We can eat with confidence, and it’s the same for our customers.”After decades at their original location, Aksons moved to a larger space seven years ago, a transition filled with both fear and hope. While they navigate the challenges of the modern food industry, from the high commissions of delivery apps to rising ingredient costs, their spirit remains unshaken.Akson is more than just a place to eat. It is a living archive, serving history with every food — a story of a family’s journey, a taste of Kerala that has become an indelible part of Hyderabad’s soul.Published - October 04, 2025 07:57 pm IST