赫海威, HISAKO UENO2025年12月30日与那国岛是位于台湾以东约110公里的日本军事前哨，坐落在所谓的“第一岛链”上，这是一片用于限制中国海军扩张的战略性岛屿弧形地带。 As a lifelong resident of Yonaguni, a remote island that is Japan’s westernmost point, Himeyo Ukemasu remembers the distant days when life was measured by the bright stars, the tides and the ripening of mulberry trees.作为一辈子生活在日本最西端的偏远岛屿与那国岛的居民， 请舛日美代（音）依然记得那些以星辰、潮汐和桑葚成熟为生活刻度的遥远岁月。Today, the stars have been obscured by radar towers, and Ms. Ukemasu, a 70-year-old volunteer at a tourist site, has other concerns. Yonaguni, a Japanese military outpost about 70 miles east of Taiwan, sits along the so-called “first island chain,” a strategic arc of islands used to hem in Chinese naval expansion. As China fumes over Japan’s recent expression of support for Taiwan, Ms. Ukemasu and the island’s roughly 1,600 other residents have found themselves on the front lines of a rapidly escalating dispute.如今，星空被雷达塔遮住了，这位在旅游景点做志愿者的70岁老人有了别的忧虑。与那国岛是日本的一个军事前哨，位于台湾以东约110公里处，坐落在所谓的“第一岛链”上——这是一道用来遏制中国海军扩张的战略岛弧。随着中国因日本最近表达对台湾的支持而大为恼火， 请舛日美代和岛上约1600名居民发现自己身处迅速升级的争端前线。“I don’t want the people to be sacrificed,” she said. “I want to see the mulberries turn red and the lilies bloom. All I want is an ordinary life.”“我不希望老百姓成为牺牲品，”她说。“我只想看着桑葚变红、百合绽放。我想要的不过是普通的生活。”"我想要的不过是普通的生活，”请舛日美代说，她作为志愿者管理着拍摄电视剧《孤岛诊疗所》的拍摄地。 Ko Sasaki for The New York TimesFor decades, Yonaguni, part of Okinawa Prefecture, has been an enchanting oasis in the East China Sea with wild horses, hammerhead sharks and an offshore rock formation that some believe to be the ruins of a lost civilization. The island was perhaps best known in Japan as the backdrop for “Dr. Koto’s Clinic,” a 2000s medical drama about a Tokyo surgeon banished to a remote Okinawan clinic.数十年来，隶属于冲绳县的与那国岛曾是东海令人神往的世外桃源：这里有野马、双髻鲨，以及一处被一些人视为失落文明遗迹的海底巨石阵。在日本，这座岛屿或许因2000年代医疗剧《孤岛诊疗所》最为闻名——该剧讲述一位被流放到冲绳偏远诊所的东京外科医生的故事。But over the past decade, the Japanese government has invested tens of millions of dollars to make Yonaguni a bulwark in its efforts to counter Chinese military aggression, with troops, radar towers and ammunition storage sites. Japanese and American military assets there could prevent Chinese warships from getting into the open Pacific waters farther east if conflict were to break out. The island has three tiny settlements, a small airport and a garrison of about 230 soldiers.但在过去十年间，日本政府投入数千万美元，把与那国建设成抵御中国军事进逼的堡垒，部署了军队、雷达塔和弹药库。如果爆发冲突，驻扎在那里的日美军事资产可以阻止中国军舰进入更东面的太平洋开阔水域。岛上有三个聚居地、一座小机场，以及约230名驻军。China has led an all-out effort to punish Japan since early November, when Japan’s prime minister, Sanae Takaichi, said her country could intervene militarily if China were to attack Taiwan, a self-governed democracy that Beijing claims is part of its territory. The Chinese government unleashed a wave of reprisals, discouraging tourism to Japan and ramping up air and sea patrols, including around Okinawa. China plans to hold live-fire military drills around Taiwan on Tuesday — a show of strength by its navy and air force — including some activities near Yonaguni.自11月初日本首相高市早苗称中国若攻台日本可能军事介入以来，中国一直全力惩罚日本。台湾是一个自治民主政体，北京声称其属于中国领土。中国政府采取了一系列报复措施：限制赴日旅游，加强海空巡逻，包括在冲绳周边区域。中国计划于周二在台湾周边举行实弹军演，以此展示海空军事实力，其中一些活动将在与那国岛附近进行Yonaguni is a reminder that Japan’s own security is linked to Taiwan’s. A Chinese attack on Taiwan could threaten Japan’s access to vital sea lanes and leave far-flung Okinawan islands vulnerable. (Chinese commentators have in recent years sought to raise doubts about Japan’s sovereignty over Okinawa.)与那国岛提醒着人们，日本自身的安危与台湾紧密相连。中国若对台动武，可能威胁日本通往关键航道的通道，并使偏远的冲绳诸岛暴露于风险之中（近年来，中国有一些评论人士试图质疑日本对冲绳的主权）。Japan’s defense minister, Shinjiro Koizumi, recently visited the island, where he detailed plans to station medium-range antiaircraft missiles there to deter an “armed attack on our country.” The move is part of broader effort by the Japanese military, known as the Self-Defense Forces, to fortify islands across Okinawa as a counterweight to China. Prime Minister Takaichi, a China hawk, has said she will accelerate Japan’s military spending to 2 percent of gross domestic product by next spring, two years ahead of schedule.不久前，日本防卫大臣小泉进次郎登岛视察，详述了在该岛部署中程防空导弹以威慑“对我国武装攻击”的计划。此举是日本自卫队强化冲绳诸岛防御体系、制衡中国整体部署的一部分。对华立场强硬的首相高市早苗表示，将在明年春天以前把日本军费开支占国内生产总值的比重提高至2%，比原计划提早了两年。日本自卫队的雷达设施。 岛上大约1600名居民发现自己身处迅速升级的争端前线。China has called the plan to put missiles on Yonaguni “extremely dangerous” and accused Japan of “provoking military confrontation.” The Chinese military recently flew drones near the island to express its displeasure.中国称在与那国岛部署导弹的计划“极其危险”，并指责日本“挑起军事对抗”。中国军方近期还在该岛附近空域出动了无人机以示不满。Residents said that they have tried to tune out the tensions, though the subject sometimes arises at local izakayas, or pubs, after long days of work in the sugar-cane fields or at the garrison. In interviews, some people were defiant, saying they would not evacuate the island even if there were a Chinese attack on Taiwan.当地居民表示，尽管在甘蔗田或军营劳累整天后，居酒屋里偶尔会谈及相关话题，但大家尽量不去关注紧张局势。受访者中有人态度坚决，称即使中国对台发动攻击也不会撤离该岛。Many residents rejected the idea that a crisis is imminent, blaming the news media for stoking fears of conflict. But they acknowledged that island’s identity has changed since the garrison was established in 2016; at the time, there were 632 votes in favor of hosting the military, and 445 against. Now, apartment buildings have been built for the troops, and military families mingle with Yonaguni natives at restaurants and shrines.许多居民不认同危机迫在眉睫的说法，指责新闻媒体渲染冲突恐慌。但他们也承认，自2016年设立驻军以来，这座岛的身份已经发生变化——当年支持驻军的票数为632票，反对票为445票。如今为部队修建的公寓楼拔地而起，军属与岛民在餐馆和神社的交往日益频繁。The island’s mayor, Tsuneo Uechi, won election this year promising to take a more cautious approach to defense expansion. He has expressed concern about hosting the American military on the island for joint drills with Japan. The United States has deployed radar systems to Yonaguni and held medical visits there as part of training in recent years.今年该岛新当选的町长上地常夫承诺，将在防务扩张问题上采取更加谨慎的态度。他对美军登岛与日军联合演习表示忧虑。近年来，美国已在与那国岛部署雷达系统，并把医疗巡诊纳入在当地的训练内容。In an interview, Mr. Uechi said most residents were just trying to go about their lives. While he is wary of turning the island into a fortress, he acknowledged that some level of preparation is inevitable.接受采访时，上地常夫表示，大多数居民只是想过自己的日子。尽管他对将岛屿要塞化保持警惕，但也承认某种程度的准备是不可避免的。“It will be too late once something happens,” he said, “so we’re preparing for the worst.”他说：“等事情发生就太迟了，所以我们是在做最坏的打算。”岛上的居民表示，他们一直尽量不去理会这些紧张局势。今年新当选的町长上地常夫承诺，将在防务扩张问题上采取更加谨慎的态度。In recent years, Yonaguni’s proximity to Taiwan has placed it increasingly at the center of regional tensions. In 2022, after Nancy Pelosi, then the speaker of the U.S. House of Representatives, visited Taiwan, China fired at least 11 missiles in response, including one that landed about 50 miles northeast of Yonaguni.近些年，与那国岛因临近台湾，日益成为地区紧张局势的焦点。2022年，美国众议院议长南希·佩洛西访问台湾后，中国发射了至少11枚导弹作为回应，其中一枚落在与那国岛东北约80公里处。China’s increasingly bold threats against Taiwan have raised new alarms. The Japanese government plans to build underground shelters across remote Okinawan islands over the next several years, including one on Yonaguni that can hold more than 200 people. And officials are holding evacuation drills and preparing residents for a possible influx of Taiwanese refugees.中国对台湾日益强硬的威胁已敲响新的警钟。日本政府计划在未来几年里在偏远的冲绳各岛修建地下避难所，包括在与那国岛修建一处可容纳200多人的避难设施。官员们还在举行疏散演习，并让居民为可能涌入的台湾难民做准备。Japan also plans to deploy about 30 troops to Yonaguni over the next year to form an electronic warfare unit.日本还计划在明年向与那国岛增派大约30名士兵，组建一个电子战部队。Many residents are skeptical of the Japanese government’s intentions, saying the presence of more troops makes the island even more of a target. A pacifist streak runs through Okinawa, in part because of a legacy of U.S. colonialism, World War II and the abundance of American military bases in Japan.许多居民对日本政府的意图持怀疑态度，认为增兵只会让该岛更易成为攻击目标。冲绳一贯倾向于和平主义，这在一定程度上源于美国殖民统治、二战以及日本诸多美军基地留下的历史。位于与那国岛西端的久部良渔港。业余潜水员、在一家汽车修理厂工作的富盛隆（音）说，在岛上部署导弹让他感到担心。 Takashi Tomitori, 56, an amateur diver, moved to Yonaguni several years ago from Chiba Prefecture near Tokyo, drawn by its stunning oceans. He said he felt the decision to station missiles there would make the island more dangerous.56岁的富盛隆（音）是一名业余潜水员，几年前从东京附近的千叶县搬到与那国岛，被这里迷人的海洋所吸引。他说，他觉得部署导弹的决定会让这座岛屿更加危险。“A war would seriously damage the island,” said Mr. Tomitori, who is also an auto mechanic. “Wouldn’t it be better not to have any missiles? Wouldn’t it be better not to retaliate?”“战争会给岛上带来严重破坏，”同时身为汽车修理工的富盛隆说道。“不部署导弹不是更好吗？不进行报复不是更好吗？”Still, more hawkish voices say the island needs to protect itself.然而，更多鹰派声音认为，这座岛屿需要自我防卫。Shigenori Takenishi, chairman of the Yonaguni fishery association, said he was increasingly concerned by China’s movements in the seas around Japan.与那国岛渔业协会会长竹西重德（音）说，他对中国在日本周边海域的活动越来越担心。“We never know what China might do,” he said.他说：“我们永远不知道中国会做什么。”Beyond security, Mr. Takenishi said troops were helping keep Yonaguni vibrant, at a time when the local population is aging and declining. The island lacks a major port, a high school and a hospital. Many young people have left in recent years for Japanese cities in search of better opportunities.除了安全方面之外，竹西重德表示，驻军还在帮助维持与那国岛的活力——因为当地人口正在老龄化并不断减少。岛上没有大型港口、没有高中，也没有医院。近年来，很多年轻人为了寻找更好的机会，都去了日本本土城市。“Yonaguni won’t survive without the military,” Mr. Takenishi said.“没有自卫队，与那国活岛将难以存续，”他说。Then there is the stress of being caught between geopolitical rivals. Some people joke that life might be better if Yonaguni could be moved farther to the east, perhaps closer to Hawaii.另外一种压力，则来自被地缘政治对手夹在中间。有人开玩笑说，要是能把与那国岛搬得更靠东一点，最好搬到更接近夏威夷的地方，生活也许会更好。为圣诞节的花车游行装饰皮卡车，挂上灯饰和各种饰物——这是当地的传统。On a recent evening, a group of young fathers gathered in a garage to build floats for a Christmas Day light parade, a Yonaguni tradition. They spent hours hammering together set pieces and stringing lights as Christmas music blared in the background. The aim was to give residents, especially children, something light and fun to think about for a change.不久前的一个傍晚，一群年轻爸爸聚集在一间车库里，为圣诞节彩灯游行制作花车，这是与那国岛的传统活动。他们在震耳的圣诞音乐声中花费数小时敲打组装布景、串连灯饰。他们做这些就是为了给居民——尤其是孩子们——提供些许轻松快乐的念想。“Seeing their smiling faces is very rewarding,” said Takanobu Sugimoto, a 37-year-old father of four children, as he measured a piece of plywood. “That’s what this parade is all about.”“看到他们的笑脸非常值得，”四个孩子的父亲、37岁的杉本孝信（音）边量着胶合板边说。“这场游行的意义就在这里。”With tensions flaring in the region yet again, Mr. Sugimoto said the people of Yonaguni had come to accept there was little they could do to change the situation.随着地区紧张局势再度升温，杉本孝信表示，与那国岛的民众已逐渐接受了无力改变现状的现实。“That’s the only way it can be,” he said. “That’s the way we’ve become.”他说，“只能如此了。我们已经习惯了。”与那国岛上标志着日本最西端地点的纪念碑。摄影：Ko Sasaki赫海威(Javier C. Hernández)是《纽约时报》东京分社社长，领导时报对日本及周边地区的报道。在过去十年的大部分时间里，他一直在亚洲进行报道，此前曾任驻华记者。Hisako Ueno是常驻东京的记者/研究员，撰写日本政治、商业、劳工、性别及文化相关议题。翻译：纽约时报中文网点击查看本文英文版。