NAIROBI, Kenya, Jan 1 — In the early 2000s, along the banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River in the heart of Kenya’s Samburu National Reserve, rangers and herders encountered a moment so unexpected that it stirred unease and admiration. A lioness was moving through the bush with a newborn beisa oryx calf following her, stumbling on thin legs, small enough to fit between her forepaws.The calf was barely a week old, but it should not have lasted minutes. Instead, it stayed with the lioness for days. She lay beside it during the heat of the day, shielded it from the sun, and drove away predators that wandered too close.For days, then weeks, the unlikely pair were seen together. The lioness, later named Kamunyak, which means “the blessed one” in the Samburu language, cared for the oryx calf as if it were her own.The story ends sadly, as stories from the wild often do. When Kamunyak left briefly to drink from the river, another lion killed the calf. According to local accounts, the lioness searched the area for days before disappearing into the wilderness. Whether that final detail belongs to fact or memory hardly matters. The story has lived on for more than two decades, retold by Samburu elders as a lesson rather than an anomaly.Members of the Samburu community go about their daily routines in northern Kenya’s Samburu region in 2023. GERALD ANDERSON/GETTY IMAGESLocally, Kamunyak’s story is not framed as sentimentality. It is spoken of as an embodiment of restraint, coexistence, and the sacred balance that governs life in the harsh Samburu terrain. Elders describe it as an expression of a land that rewards patience and punishes excess. Visitors may hear it early in their stay, often before they have seen a lion at all. It sets the tone.“You cannot understand the reserve without understanding the Samburu community,” says Tom Lesarge, director of Samburu National Reserve. “The locals are part of the attraction.”It is a practical observation. For generations, the protection of nature has been woven into Samburu culture and passed down through the stories elders tell at dusk, rituals performed at sacred hills, and daily practices shaped by survival in the wilderness. The reserve sits roughly 350 kilometers north of Nairobi, where Kenya’s greener highlands give way to semi-arid country. Here, acacia trees dominate the horizon, water dictates movement, and survival depends on knowing when not to push further.For first-time visitors, Samburu often feels quieter than Kenya’s southern parks. The drama is subtler. There are fewer vehicles, wider spaces, and longer pauses between sightings. That restraint is part of its character.The “Special Five” animals wander inside the Samburu National Reserve in Kenya. From top to bottom: the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, the gerenuk, the Somali ostrich, and the beisa oryx. VICTOR RABALLA/CHINA DAILYThe Special FiveSamburu is known for a group of animals found together in few other places in Kenya, often referred to as the “Special Five”. Here, they share an unforgiving terrain and have adapted to it with remarkable precision.The beisa oryx, central to Kamunyak’s story, is superbly suited to this environment. With long, straight horns and striking black-and-white facial markings, it regulates its body temperature and survives on minimal water. It can endure droughts that would defeat many other species.Alongside it is the Grevy’s zebra, taller and leaner than its plains cousin, with narrow stripes that extend to its hooves. It is critically endangered and strongly associated with northern Kenya, where it roams over vast distances in search of grazing.The reticulated giraffe is hard to miss. Its bold, geometric coat appears almost drawn, glowing in the early morning and late afternoon light. Feeding high in the acacia canopy, it reaches leaves unavailable to most herbivores.The “Special Five” animals wander inside the Samburu National Reserve in Kenya. From top to bottom: the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, the gerenuk, the Somali ostrich, and the beisa oryx. VICTOR RABALLA/CHINA DAILYSomali ostrich The male Somali ostrich stands out with bluish-gray skin on its neck and thighs. Often seen striding across open ground, it looks less hurried than its southern relatives. Then there is the gerenuk, slender and long-necked, which browses upright on shrubs, balancing on its hind legs to get to food far above the reach of other antelope.These species are examples of how life has adjusted to a place where nothing comes easily. That theme repeats itself across the reserve.Besides the Special Five, Samburu’s elephants also define the character of the reserve with their gentle demeanor. Families move together slowly and deliberately along ancient corridors, drawn to the Ewaso Ng’iro River, the reserve’s only water source. Unlike more intense wildlife experiences elsewhere, the calm behavior of Samburu elephants often surprises visitors. Encounters can feel intimate without being intrusive, particularly when elephants pause near vehicles, seemingly unbothered by quiet observers.Other wildlife is abundant. Lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, and wild dogs all move through the area. Crocodiles and hippos inhabit the river, while more than 300 bird species attract dedicated bird-watchers, especially during early morning and late afternoon hours.The “Special Five” animals wander inside the Samburu National Reserve in Kenya. From top to bottom: the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, the gerenuk, the Somali ostrich, and the beisa oryx. VICTOR RABALLA/CHINA DAILYCommunity and conservationSamburu National Reserve does not exist in isolation. It is part of a broader ecosystem supported by a growing network of conservancies across Samburu County, which has emerged as one of Kenya’s leading examples of community-led wildlife conservation.These conservancies are largely community-owned and managed, built on the Samburu people’s longstanding pastoral and conservation traditions, where land, livestock, and wildlife coexist.In a region prone to drought, conservancies help manage grazing patterns and reduce human-wildlife conflict by planning land use collectively. They also provide refuge for wildlife during dry seasons, easing pressure on the national reserve itself. For visitors, they also offer a deeper context, connecting wildlife sightings to the people who live with them year-round.Cultural visits are often part of a Samburu itinerary. Village visits focus on daily life rather than performance. Sacred sites such as Mount Ololokwe are approached with respect, offering physical challenge and spiritual perspective in equal measure.Another amazing cultural and historical landmark for the Samburu people is the Koitogor Hill, which was used between 1948 and 1960 by elders from surrounding communities as a meeting point to resolve disputes, divide spiritual resources, and discuss matters affecting the wider community. It remains a symbolic landmark linking Samburu with neighboring reserves like Buffalo Springs and Shaba.As daylight fades, Samburu reveals another dimension. With minimal light pollution, the night sky becomes an attraction in its own right. Stargazing has grown steadily in popularity, drawing visitors interested in astronomy as much as wildlife.The “Special Five” animals wander inside the Samburu National Reserve in Kenya. From top to bottom: the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, the gerenuk, the Somali ostrich, and the beisa oryx. VICTOR RABALLA/CHINA DAILYOn the darkest nights, guests gather for guided sessions where telescopes point skyward, and Samburu elders explain how stars guided movement, seasons, and survival long before maps existed.In September, Samburu National Reserve launched one of East Africa’s first dedicated astro-tourism offerings, timed to coincide with a total lunar eclipse. The initiative introduced guided night-sky tours, astrophotography sessions, educational workshops, and a custom-built planetarium that combines local cultural perspectives of the cosmos with scientific astronomy.“The development is part of a broader growth in nighttime tourism experiences that extend beyond traditional wildlife safaris,” says Walter Muriithi, manager of Samburu Sopa Lodge.Several lodges have adapted to this interest with open-air viewing decks, night sky talks, and, in some cases, star beds that allow guests to sleep beneath the open sky. These experiences are quiet to align with the area’s broader emphasis on low-impact tourism.Accommodation within Samburu National Reserve remains intentionally limited. There are just seven camps inside the reserve, with fewer than 450 beds in total. This cap helps preserve the sense of space that defines the area.Lodges range from larger properties designed for groups and conferences to smaller tented camps focused on intimacy and immersion. Many are set along the Ewaso Ng’iro River, where wildlife activity is constant and evenings bring cooling breezes.Some camps emphasize cultural integration and traditional design by using local materials and layouts that blend into the landscape. Others offer flexible schedules and experienced guides familiar with animal behavior and light conditions to cater to photographers and filmmakers.Prices vary depending on season, accommodation type, and included activities, with most camps offering full-board packages that include meals and guided game drives. Sundowners, often held at carefully chosen viewpoints, are a highlight for many visitors, marking the transition from day to night in a landscape that changes dramatically with the light.The “Special Five” animals wander inside the Samburu National Reserve in Kenya. From top to bottom: the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, the gerenuk, the Somali ostrich, and the beisa oryx. VICTOR RABALLA/CHINA DAILYThe reserve can be accessed by road or air, with improving infrastructure and flight connections making Samburu increasingly accessible. Driving from Nairobi takes several hours and offers a gradual transition from the highlands to the northern plains. For travelers seeking convenience and comfort, scheduled and charter flights operate from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to nearby airstrips, including Samburu, Kalama, Buffalo Springs, and Westgate. The flight takes about an hour and provides sweeping views of Mount Kenya and the surrounding plains.Visitor numbers tend to peak during Kenyan holiday periods such as Easter and Christmas, when domestic travel increases. International visitors often arrive between June and September, coinciding with the European summer. Outside these periods, the reserve is quieter, appealing to travelers seeking solitude and unhurried exploration.Last year, Samburu welcomed more than 17,000 visitors. The majority were international, though domestic tourism has grown steadily in recent years as Kenyans rediscover the country’s north.Samburu does not overwhelm. It reveals itself gradually, through long drives without sightings, sudden moments of stillness, and stories told quietly at night. Visitors often leave with fewer photographs than expected and more memory than they planned.Kamunyak’s story is usually retold again before departure, sometimes under the stars. By then, it feels less like a legend and more like a key. Samburu is a place where restraint matters, where survival depends on knowing when to take and when to leave untouched. That lesson applies as much to travelers as it does to lions.In the end, Samburu does not ask to be conquered or consumed. It asks to be observed, respected, and remembered.For more visit China DailyFor subscriptions on news from China Daily, or inquiries, please contact China Daily Africa Ltd on +254 20 6920900 or write to enquiries@chinadailyafrica.com