Pudak, a Taste of Gresik’s Living Heritage

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The morning was still quiet when I arrived at a small store on Aipda Karel Sasuit Tubun Street in Pulopancikan, Gresik, East Java, Indonesia. The neighborhood had yet to fully wake. From the outside, the store looked unremarkable. There was no storefront or eye-catching sign. Only a simple banner with the image of a horse marked the place.Stepping inside revealed a different story. The fragrant aroma of coconut and palm sugar hit me as soon as I entered the shop. The steady hum of a rice flour grinder filled the room, accompanied by the rhythmic sound of a sewing machine. The machine was not stitching fabric, but assembling arecanut leaf sheaths, locally known as ope (pelepah pinang), which serve as pudak’s distinctive wrapping. Ope are carefully arranged and sewn into small pouches.The batter is poured into the pouches. The batter was made from rice flour, caramelized palm sugar, and coconut milk, a simple yet delicious mixture. The batter is then steamed for about two hours. The slow process gives pudak a soft texture and subtle sweet flavour.Despite the availability of modern packaging, the makers continue to use ope. This is because ope gives a special taste to the pudak. During steaming, ope releases a subtle, natural aroma that is infused to the batter. This fragrance gives pudak its unmistakable character and sets it apart from similar rice-based sweets found elsewhere. In Indonesia, communities have long relied on natural materials in sustainable ways, practices that continue to endure today. The use of ope here reflects that tradition, where function, flavor, and respect for nature come together. Alongside pudak, the store also produces jenang jubung, another traditional sweet popular in Gresik. Made from black glutinous rice flour, coconut milk, and sugar. It’s cooked by stirring slowly for 5-6 hours until it reaches a thick, chewy texture. The texture is like mochi.The business began around 1950, founded by Mrs. Tjoe as a small home made cake shop. Over time, pudak from this shop became widely known and evolved into Pudak Cap Kuda. The name comes from the founder’s chinese-zodiac (Shio) sign and has remained part of the shop’s identity ever since. The horse banner at the front of the house continues to guide returning customers.For over seventy years, Cap Kuda Shop has continued to produce pudak and jenang, maintaining traditional methods. Some cooking utensils have adapted to modernity, but the core techniques remain the same. Today, the business is run by the third generation of the founding family. For travelers passing through Gresik, this shop serves as a reminder of the city’s traditions and history. Within a single piece of pudak and jubung, the story of Gresik as a port city is preserved, where diverse cultures met, acculturated, and survived through taste.You can see the video of my trip to Pudak Cap Kuda Shop through my Instagram and TikTok account @dluwangsoklat.AuthorSuraida MeisariArtist's Websitehttp://instagram.com/dluwangsoklatThe post Pudak, a Taste of Gresik’s Living Heritage appeared first on Urban Sketchers.