There is much to be said for the big fat Indian wedding. It’s never just about the celebration or meeting family and friends from across the world—it’s equally about the wedding feasts on offer. If you want a true taste of India, you need to attend an Indian wedding.We don’t do things by half-measures over here, and we don’t believe in the European or American tradition of asking guests beforehand whether they would prefer the chicken or the fish. At an Indian wedding, you may get served both, no need to choose.Of course, the wedding feast has evolved: from the days when we were young and marriageable, to now, when our children (or in my case, my friend’s children) are of marriageable age.One of my earliest memories of a wedding feast is my Marwari friend’s siblings’ weddings. Marwaris are traditionally vegetarian—and for a Bengali, this can be daunting. Especially in our younger days, when we hadn’t developed a love for vegetables, and thought good food meant as much meat, fish and prawns as you could stomach.But Calcutta Marwari weddings could convert the most hardcore carnivore. Decades ago, I remember a feast featuring the finest Italian, Chinese, and, of course, Indian cuisine—all vegetarian, cooked by Munna Maharaj, who specialised in vegetarian feasts. The desserts were stupendous, and not limited to just the Indian plethora of mithai—the finest strawberry shortcakes, millefeuille, and tiramisu were on offer. You could eat until you burst.Another wedding that has stayed with me is my Parsi friend’s sister’s wedding. The Parsis, like the Bengalis, eat their feasts course by course, seated at long wooden tables, facing forward, focused on the food. The table is laid with banana leaves, which serve as plates. You are served each course of the most delicious Parsi cuisine you can imagine, usually prepared by a Parsi caterer. A true Parsi bhonu or feast. Any large wedding today, thanks to the multiple kitchens at any hotel worth its salt, will serve you a plethora of cuisines. (Photo: Freepik/AI-generated)I was lucky enough to have a feast cooked by legendary caterer Tanaz Godiwala. A statue should be erected in her honour. We were served Saas Ni Macchi (fish cooked in a white vinegar-flour sauce), Dabba Gosht, Mutton Pulao, Salli Murghi (a piquant chicken with crisply fried potato juliennes), Akuri (creamy scrambled eggs), Topli nu Paneer (an interesting salty paneer which is set in small wicker baskets), and the Parsi take on caramel custard, Lagan Nu Custard.Story continues below this adThe Bengali wedding—which is now more of a buffet, as there are so many guests that it is nearly impossible to seat them at long tables and serve them course by course—is worth attending. The traditional Bengali wedding feast, like the one my aunt had 20 years ago, would have guests sitting at long tables similar to the Parsi feast. Seats are placed on only one side of the table, so you face forward, and the other side is left empty so servers can serve each person.ALSO READ | What’s in a name? From rasgulla to champagne, why authenticity mattersA Bengali wedding feast would have a fragrant gondhoraj lime, a few chillies, and a little pile of salt on your banana leaf. Then the feast would unfold: papad with a little chutney (plastic or mango), followed by a fried fish, some fried brinjal, and pointed gourd or potol. Next came Cholar Dal with puffed bread (luchi, shukto), a mixed bitter-vegetable stew, at least two or three vegetables, then ilish in a spicy thin gravy, Kosha Maangsho (slow-cooked mutton), Prawn Malaikari, rice, some more chutney, and an array of sweets.You are meant to spend at least an hour, if not more, eating. Of course, I believe that no Bengali wedding feast is complete without a Fish Orly—similar to the batter-fried fish you get in England. It was the only reason I considered getting married, till I realised you can now order in a Fish Orly without having to host a wedding. Teppanyaki grill counters are a common sight at Indian weddings today. (Photo: Freepik)Today’s weddings are celebrations in a different sense. With many couples now coming from mixed-race or mixed communities, the wedding feasts reflect a wider array of cuisines, catering to all taste profiles, while keeping in mind that many guests and family members are no longer just Indians.Story continues below this adAny large wedding today, thanks to the multiple kitchens at any hotel worth its salt, will serve you a plethora of cuisines. From a section serving freshly grilled lamb chops and salmon, to a Teppanyaki grill counter, a Goan section, and Kashmiri food with wazwan. Earlier, there would be just one night when alcohol was served. Now, thankfully, you will have the best of cocktails and drinks. The wonder of liberalisation.If you’re a tourist in India, try to get an invite to a big fat Indian wedding—just to experience the khaatirdari or hospitality. Not only will you get a true taste of India, but you will also understand why Indian families are a little over the top. It’s all that good food we eat.Next week, I’ll be writing about which diet foods actually work—and the ones we (including Rani Mukerji, it seems) just can’t stay away from.”