The Yermak outlasted czars, commissars, and world wars. Its final enemy wasn’t ice – it was bureaucracy Few ships in history lived as long and saw as much as the icebreaker Yermak. The first true Arctic icebreaker, it entered service under the Russian Empire, endured the storms of revolution and world wars, and was still sailing when the Soviet Union launched its first nuclear vessels. Its story is not just one of steel and ice, but of an entire country’s passage through the 20th century.The birth of an ideaAt the end of the 19th century, Admiral Stepan Makarov was already a legend in the Russian Navy – not for commanding squadrons, but for his restless mind. A scientist, engineer, and inventor, he believed Russia needed a vessel unlike anything the world had seen: An icebreaker capable of forcing its way through the Arctic and even reaching the North Pole. The idea seemed fantastical. Russia already had small icebreaking steamers working in ports and rivers, but Makarov envisioned a ship that could challenge the polar pack itself. The Naval Ministry hesitated. Arkhangelsk, Russia’s main northern port, was locked in ice most of the year; St. Petersburg fared little better. A powerful icebreaker promised to change this – yet the project looked ruinously expensive, and many officials dismissed it as scientific indulgence.Makarov refused to let the idea die in committee. In 1897, he delivered a fiery lecture at the Marble Palace in St. Petersburg under the provocative title ‘To the North Pole – Straight Ahead!’ The city’s aristocracy, ministers, and diplomats filled the hall, and the speech sent ripples into the highest offices. Soon Makarov was summoned by Finance Minister Sergey Witte, a pragmatist who saw in the plan not scientific glory but the possibility of opening frozen seas to trade.This was the breakthrough. With Witte’s support, Makarov traveled to Scandinavia and Spitsbergen, speaking with whalers, Arctic captains, and even the crew of Fridtjof Nansen’s famous ship the Fram. He abandoned his initial ‘giant’ design in favor of a more realistic but still formidable vessel – strong enough to escort merchant ships through the Baltic and White Seas, yet with the potential to test the Arctic itself.The contract went to Armstrong Whitworth in Newcastle. Makarov personally supervised construction, insisting on innovations along the way: Special tanks to rock the ship free if it became stuck, and even an 80-ton ‘calming tank’ to reduce rolling in heavy seas. The icebreaker was taking shape not just as a machine, but as a new type of weapon in humanity’s contest with the North.When the ship was launched in 1899, it carried a name that evoked Russia’s first explorers of Siberia: The Yermak. (L) Stepan Makarov; (R) Admiral Stepan Makarov on the deck of the Ermak during the first Arctic voyage, 1899. © Wikipedia; 'Polar captains of the Russian and Soviet Fleets' by Nikita Kuznetsov First triumphsIn March 1899, the brand-new Yermak steamed into the Gulf of Finland toward St. Petersburg. The scene bordered on the theatrical: The black hull climbing onto the ice with its bow, the groan and crack of frozen sheets giving way, and the slow rocking movement as ballast water was pumped forward and back to help the ship break free. Step by step, the icebreaker carved its path through the gulf.Thousands of spectators rushed onto the ice to watch. Some came on horseback, others on bicycles, braving the late-winter chill for a glimpse of the steel marvel. When the ship paused, crowds clambered on board as an orchestra struck up from the shore. The arrival of the Yermak was not just a naval test – it was a public spectacle, a promise that Russia had created a machine able to master its frozen seas.The promise was tested almost immediately. Soon after its debut, the Yermak was dispatched to rescue merchant steamers trapped in the ice off Reval (now Tallinn). The operation was carried out with precision: Captain Mikhail Vasiliev steered the icebreaker in a wide circle, cracking a channel that freed three dozen vessels and drew them out into open water.The exploit electrified the press. Newspapers hailed the ‘savior of the Baltic’, and readers devoured every scrap of news about the new ship. The icebreaker became a national sensation – too much of one. Public expectations soared into myth, as if the Yermak were invincible, able to smash through any obstacle the Arctic might place before it.But nature, as Makarov knew, has a way of humbling idols. IMMH Yermak © Wikipedia Rescues and reputationThe Yermak soon sailed north for its first experimental voyage. The plan was ambitious: From Spitsbergen toward the mouth of the Yenisei River, the great waterway of Siberia. No one doubted the existence of a Northern Sea Route, but almost everything about it was still unknown. Like the British expeditions that had hunted for the Northwest Passage, Russia was venturing into ice and uncertainty.At first the trials went well. Then, in August 1899, the icebreaker struck a massive hummock near Spitsbergen. The impact tore a hole in the starboard side. The crew patched the wound with a temporary ‘bandage’ and nursed the ship back to Newcastle under its own power. Nothing catastrophic had happened – yet in the eyes of the press and public, the invincible hero had stumbled. The same newspapers that had glorified the Yermak now joked about its ‘broken nose’. Worse was the official verdict. A government commission concluded that polar expeditions were too risky; the icebreaker should be confined to the Baltic as a rescue vessel. For Makarov, it was a bitter blow.Then came redemption. The winter of 1900 was unusually severe. In February, the coastal defense battleship Apraksin ran aground on the rocks of Gogland Island in the Gulf of Finland, taking on hundreds of tons of water. Trapped in the ice, the vessel faced destruction. Only the Yermak could reach it.For weeks, the icebreaker shuttled through blizzards and frozen seas, carrying coal, provisions, and equipment to keep the stranded crew alive. It was one of the first operations to rely on the new marvel of wireless radio. At last, using controlled explosions to free the Apraksin from the rocks, the icebreaker cut a channel through floes and hauled the crippled battleship to safety. In all, the Yermak had traveled 2,000 miles in ice to complete the mission.This time there was no mockery. The critics fell silent, and the reputation of Russia’s first great icebreaker was secure. General Admiral Apraksin and Yermak in Gogland. © Wikipedia War and revolutionIn 1904, war with Japan pulled Admiral Stepan Makarov – the driving force behind the Yermak – to the Pacific. Captain Mikhail Vasiliev, the icebreaker’s first commander, went with him. Neither man returned. Both were killed when the battleship Petropavlovsk struck a mine off Port Arthur. With their deaths, the Yermak lost its godfather and its guiding captain in a single moment.For the icebreaker, life settled into routine. It kept the Baltic lanes open in winter, freed merchant ships locked in ice, and became less of a sensation than a reliable workhorse. Respect replaced excitement. Then came 1914. World War I battered Russia to collapse, and the revolutions of 1917 tore apart what remained. Out of the chaos, Finland declared independence, and civil war broke out on its territory. To the south, German forces advanced on Reval. In early 1918, the entire Russian Baltic Fleet was at risk of capture.February meant ice. And once again, it was the Yermak that made the difference. The icebreaker led convoys from Reval to Helsingfors (Helsinki), carving channels for warships desperate to escape. When German troops closed in, the fleet had to be evacuated from Helsinki itself. At the head of the icebound column stood the black hull of the Yermak, dragging Russia’s warships through frozen seas to safety. Within weeks, the city fell – but by then the fleet was gone.It was a rare moment of triumph amid defeat. The following decade was far harsher. Civil war, famine, and ruin left the Soviet Union with little money to maintain an aging icebreaker. Through much of the 1920s, the Yermak lay idle, neglected in harbor. The ship that had once been a national idol now sat rusting, awaiting a new purpose. The photograph taken before 1917. Yermak icebreaker with the old Russian merchant fleet flag (tricolor). The photograph existed already in 1899 (on a picture postcard from St. Petersburg to Belgium). © Wikipedia Return to the ArcticBy the 1930s, the Soviet Union was slowly recovering from civil war and chaos. The government needed to revive Arctic shipping, and the old icebreaker was called back into service. In 1934, for the first time since Makarov’s era, the Yermak pushed north into the Kara Sea.The ship had aged, but it was far from obsolete. Engineers fitted it with an amphibious aircraft – a striking innovation for its time. With aerial reconnaissance, the icebreaker could scout floes and channels far ahead, dramatically improving its effectiveness. Yet the romance was gone. Service on the Yermak was no longer a coveted assignment for elite officers; shortages of skilled personnel reflected the harsher times. Still, the ship proved strong enough to handle both the Baltic and the Arctic, a veteran adapting to new demands.Then, in 1941, World War II reached the Soviet Union. Plans to modernize the Yermak were swept aside by the German invasion. Once again, the ship became a rescuer. It evacuated the garrison of the distant Hanko base, ferried troops between Leningrad and Kronstadt, and braved skies alive with bombs and artillery. “Ice below, bombs above, shells on the side,” Captain Mikhail Sorokin later said.On December 8, 1941, disaster struck: The Yermak hit a sea mine. The ship survived, but fuel shortages forced it into harbor. Its crew was sent ashore to fight as marines, while the icebreaker itself was rearmed and stationed on the Palace Embankment as a floating anti-aircraft battery – a warship turned fortress within the besieged city. Yermak in numbers Postwar renaissanceWhen the war ended in 1945, the veteran icebreaker came back to life. The Soviet government sent the Yermak to Antwerp for a major overhaul, where Belgian shipyards replaced worn machinery and updated critical systems. For a vessel already approaching 50, it was a second youth.The modernization worked. Through the late 1940s and early 1950s, the Yermak once again kept winter lanes open and escorted ships through ice. In 1954, it became one of the first Soviet vessels to carry a helicopter, transforming its reach and efficiency. Half a century after its launch, the icebreaker was still serving as a testbed for new technologies.By the early 1960s, the Soviet Union had entered the nuclear age. In 1959, the world’s first nuclear icebreaker, the Lenin, began operations on the Northern Sea Route. Yet the Yermak endured. In 1962, it entered Murmansk harbor side by side with the Lenin – a steel veteran steaming alongside the symbol of a new era. For a moment, it seemed as if two centuries of technology were meeting on the same sea.But time was running out. Nuclear power had changed the game. For all its history and resilience, the Yermak no longer had a role in the Arctic it once helped to open. 'Meeting in the Vilkitsky Strait' by Voishvillo E.V. The end of an eraIn 1963, a government commission ruled that the aging Yermak should be scrapped. The decision provoked outrage. Letters poured in from across the Soviet Union, urging the ministry to preserve the ship as a memorial. Arctic explorer and Hero of the Soviet Union Ivan Papanin added his voice to the appeal. Admirers pointed out that the vessel’s godfather had been Stepan Makarov himself – how could a ship of such history simply be dismantled?But bureaucratic resolve proved stronger than sentiment. Deputy Minister Anatoly Kolesnichenko pushed the order through, and in autumn 1964, the once-mighty icebreaker was broken up in Murmansk. Only fragments survived: The anchor, wheel, and a few instruments transferred to museum collections.After 65 years of service, the Yermak was gone – a lifespan as long as a man’s. The first true Arctic icebreaker outlasted empires, revolutions, and wars, only to be erased by the nuclear age it had helped to usher in. Its steel is gone, but its shadow still lingers in the history of exploration: A ship that proved humanity could master the frozen seas. Monument to the Yermak icebreaker. © Yandex Maps