JACOB GALLAGHER2026年3月18日国务卿鲁比奥，摄于今年1月，其鞋后跟处可见明显缝隙。 Chip Somodevilla/Getty ImagesMembers of the Trump administration have some big shoes to fill: Their own.特朗普政府的一众官员眼下的大任务，居然是穿好自己的大鞋子。In recent months, Secretary of State Marco Rubio, Vice President JD Vance and Secretary of Transportation Sean Duffy have all been photographed wearing shoes that look a half-size or so too large for them. A gap as wide as a finger sits between the back of the shoe and their socked heels.近几个月，国务卿鲁比奥、副总统万斯，以及交通部长肖恩·达菲都被拍到穿着比自己脚码大了半号左右的鞋子。鞋后跟和穿着袜子的脚跟之间的空隙甚至能塞进一根手指。The tale of the administration’s too-big shoes began when President Trump told The New York Times in January that he had recently purchased four new pairs for both Mr. Rubio and Mr. Vance (whom he referred to as “kids”).这场政府官员“大鞋风波”的缘起，是特朗普总统今年1月接受《纽约时报》采访时透露，他最近刚给鲁比奥和万斯（他称两人是“孩子们”）各买了四双新鞋。“I never like cabinet members walking in sneakers,” Mr. Trump said on the Fox commentator Brian Kilmeade’s radio show last week. “Sneakers are wonderful, but I don’t want my cabinet members wearing sneakers, so I’ll get them a pair of shoes. It’s a gift from Donald Trump.”“我向来不喜欢内阁成员穿运动鞋出门，”特朗普上周在福克斯新闻评论员布莱恩·基尔米德的广播节目中说。“运动鞋当然很好，但我不希望我的内阁成员穿运动鞋，所以我给他们买了正装鞋。这是唐纳德·特朗普的礼物。”He added, “Now they look all spiffy and nice.”他还说：“现在他们看起来个个精神利落、体面得很。”A representative for Florsheim, a Wisconsin-based dress shoe company, confirmed to The Times that a White House assistant had placed orders and that the shoes had been shipped to an address in Fairfax, Va. Dozens of pairs were delivered to this address, according to the company. Florsheim’s standard cap-toe dress shoes sell for $145. They are not made in America.总部位于威斯康星州的正装鞋品牌富乐绅(Florsheim)的发言人向《纽约时报》证实，白宫一名助理曾下单采购，鞋子被寄往弗吉尼亚州费尔法克斯市的一个地址。该公司称，有数十双鞋被送到了这个地址。富乐绅经典款包头正装鞋售价145美元，并非美国本土生产。During a December speech, filmed by the right-wing pundit Benny Johnson, Mr. Vance recounted how, during a meeting in the Oval Office, Mr. Trump went around the room asking everyone for shoe sizes so he could buy them new shoes: Mr. Rubio was an 11.5, Mr. Vance a 13. According to Mr. Vance, the president then asked a third unnamed politician in the room, who shared that he was a size 7, to which Mr. Trump said: “You know you can tell a lot about a man by his shoe size.”去年12月，在由右翼评论员本尼·约翰逊拍摄的一次演讲中，万斯讲了这样一件事：在椭圆形办公室的会上，特朗普挨个询问在场所有人的鞋码，说要给他们买新鞋。鲁比奥穿11.5码，万斯是13码。万斯说，总统随后问了在场另一位政界人士（万斯没有透露他的姓名），此人说自己穿七码的鞋，特朗普当即回应：“你们知道吗，看一个人的鞋码，能看出太多东西了。”But Mr. Trump seemed not to aim for precision in his gifting. The Wall Street Journal reported last week that Mr. Trump often guessed a person’s size.但特朗普送礼时，似乎并不追求尺码精准。《华尔街日报》上周报道称，特朗普常常靠猜测给人选鞋码。Men’s shoe specialists were not at all surprised that the president appeared to be guessing too big. Men, they said, often buy the wrong size when buying their own shoes. And they almost always estimate too large.男鞋专家对总统似乎总会选大尺码的行为一点都不意外。他们说，男性就算给自己买鞋，也常常买错码，而且几乎总是往大了买。特朗普总统曾公开表示，他为内阁成员购买过鞋子，其中包括鲁比奥和副总统万斯。“It definitely starts with, ‘I’m the big man, I wear the bigger shoe,’” said Kevin Wright, the operations manager at Brick + Mortar, a specialty shoe shop in Seattle. Men tend to seize on the largest size they ever were at any point. If a man wore a size 11 athletic cleat in high school, he’ll forever be convinced he’s an 11, not the 10 he truly needs in a dress shoe.“这本质上就是一种心态：‘我是大男人，就得穿大鞋。’”西雅图精品鞋店Brick + Mortar的运营经理凯文·赖特说。男性总执着于自己人生中穿过的最大鞋码：如果一个男人高中时穿11码的运动钉鞋，那他这辈子都会坚信自己穿11码，却不知道穿正装鞋时他其实只需要穿10码。“It’s a macho thing,” agreed Sean Moran, the owner of Dashing, a high-end shoe store in Chicago. “It’s still based on that whole your-shoe-size-is-your-package-size thing.”芝加哥高端鞋店Dashing的店主肖恩·莫兰对此表示认同：“这就是大男子主义作祟。说到底，还是脱不开‘鞋码代表那话儿尺寸’的坊间说法。”Mr. Moran’s clients are footwear obsessives — his shop is the sort of place that charges $25 just to properly measure your foot — but he did recall a customer several years ago who requested a size 9 when he was in fact a 6. “I’m like, It’s $1,400, you’re buying the wrong size,” he said, but when the man looked at his proper, smaller shoe, he replied, “No, I just can’t wear these.”莫兰的客户都是鞋履爱好者——他的店光是精准量脚就要收25美元——但他还记得，几年前，有位顾客明明脚是六码的尺寸，却非要买九码的鞋。“我跟他说，这鞋要1400美元，你买错码了，”他说，可当这位顾客看到合脚的小码鞋时，却直接回应：“不行，这个我是真穿不下。”Mostly, though, shoe sellers felt that men bought the wrong size shoe just because they didn’t know any better.不过，鞋商们大多认为，男性买错鞋码，更多只是因为根本不懂怎么选码。“The prevalence of sneakers and casual shoes distorted the sizing of dress shoes,” said Young Yoo, who owns Gentlemen’s Footwear in San Diego. “Men were measured once like 10 years ago and then they get fixated on that number.” That number might work for sneakers, which have pliable padding all around. In Mr. Yoo’s experience, a man’s sneaker size is nearly always larger: If a customer is a 10 in Nike, he’ll more likely be a 9.5 in some American-made Alden dress shoes.圣地亚哥绅士鞋履店的店主柳荣（音）说：“运动鞋和休闲鞋的普及把正装鞋的尺码体系彻底打乱了。男人可能在10年前量过一次脚，就死死认准那个数字了。”那个鞋码或许适合运动鞋，毕竟运动鞋四周都有柔软的填充物。根据柳荣的经验，男性的运动鞋码几乎总是偏大：如果一个顾客穿耐克是10码，他穿美国本土品牌奥尔登的正装鞋时，大概率是9.5码。It’s expected, Mr. Yoo said, for there to be some open space in a shoe, but the gaps visible in photos of the cabinet members were “ridiculously too much,” he said.柳荣说，鞋子里留一点空隙是正常的，但内阁成员照片里可见的空隙“大得离谱，”他说。Steven Taffel, the owner of Leffot, a high-end men’s shoe store in Manhattan, said that a fresh-from-the-box leather dress shoe shouldn’t squeeze, but it should “hug the foot.” Shoes, after all, are not static objects. “Your body weight gradually presses into the footbed, and leather soles become more flexible over time,” Mr. Taffel said.曼哈顿高端男鞋店Leffot的店主史蒂文·塔菲尔说，全新的皮质正装鞋不能挤脚，但必须“贴合脚部”。毕竟鞋子不是一成不变的。“你的体重会慢慢压进鞋床，皮质鞋底穿久了也会更合脚，”塔菲尔说。There is, he said, one relevant rule to heed: “If you can stick a finger into the heel of your shoe, it’s not just a poor fit, it’s not a very good look, either.”他说，有一条相关的规矩必须遵守：“如果你能把一根手指塞进鞋后跟，那不光是严重不合脚，看着也非常不得体。”Jacob Gallagher是《纽约时报》记者，报道时尚和生活方式新闻。翻译：纽约时报中文网点击查看本文英文版。